I think I’ve got bs34’s,they’re the ones with a pull knob on the left that has 1/2 and full choke positions.
Is there any adjustment to increase the amount of choke?
I don’t seem to be getting full choke,it’ll start on 1/2 but if I change to full it cuts out.
This has been going on forever really. It’s never started on full choke,I’ve always had to start on half choke and catch it when it fires. I just want to be able to start it normally,I.e. full choke no throttle.
I’ve recently done the valves and it is a lot better.
As I said,fiddling with the air pilot screw doesn’t do much,I tried it in half turns from 1.5 to 4 turns out.
It won’t start on full choke,if it’s just been started I can put it on 1/2 choke and it’s barely acting like it’s on choke,if I pull it out to full choke it’ll die. But in answer to your question there is a change in rpm from no choke to 1/2.
At the moment it’s starting a lot better than before but I’m doing it without choke and catching it on the throttle,then I’m putting it on Half choke and it’ll idle.
I haven't got pics,but they are sooty,and the bike floods easily.
The more I read about float height the more I'm convinced that's my problem: Choke problems, hard starting,sooty plugs, occasional fuel leaking back through carbs into airbox.
I'll bet my fuel level is too high. Carbs off in the morning.
Pipes66 wrote: ...................................
The more I read about float height the more I'm convinced that's my problem......................I'll bet my fuel level is too high. Carbs off in the morning.
Why? Checking the float levels can (and probably should) be done with the carbs on (not off) the bike. Do you have a Kawasaki Service Manual? Ed
I wouldn't remove the carbs to set the float heights. You should be able to remove the bowls and floats without removing the carbs from the engine. I've removed the bowls from my carbs more than once using either of the screwdriver tools shown below. Ed
In absence of a stand I'd use a couple nails and wire them to a door/wall whatever to set them. Setting the floats can be tedious at best with taking the bowles off and on again. I have old carb holders screwed to a door at a comfortable height making setting them a breeze.
Carb no.2 float level is too high. It’s level with top of the bowl,the other 3 are all 3-4mm below.
I’ve reset the float height without removing the carbs,what a b@stard of a job trying to hold the needle jet in place whist re-fitting the float and pin!!,may have been easier on a lift but that was already taken.
Small improvement on half choke,still stumbles and cuts out on full choke.
I think I’ll put the hotter plugs in and let her go have some fun,to her credit she won the club “iron butt” last year. See if a few miles riding round shows anything on the plugs.
Unless you guys can suggest anything before I call her?
Have you given the carbs a good clean?
While you have them of, strip them down and give them a good ultrasonic bath. There are a number of small passages that needs to be spotless I order to get these carbs to work 100%.
Ed (Nessism) has written a superb rebuild manual for the Mikuni CV carbs.
Carbs were synced last year,waiting for a mate to lend me his set to do them again,doubt it’ll help the choke though
I’ve lost count of the amount of times I’ve stripped and cleaned them,I’m told a friend of hers at z parts ultrasonically cleaned them too,last year.
It’s been a constant problem this choke issue but as I said,it’s better now than it was so it’s a result of sorts. I’ve put the Ngk br7es’ in now so the plugs stay a bit cleaner, she’s gone to put some miles on it now.