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Typically it's a good idea to tune the pilot screws until you achieve the highest idle. If they don't seem to affect the idle much put them at 2.5 turns or thereabouts; Typically they will be from 2.25 to 3 but there is no hard and fast "right" answer. Anyway, once they are set then go ahead with your sync job.

Where are we on this?

I have a question. Looking closer, did you install the four into one pipe or was it there when you bought the bike? The avatar isn't clear enough to see whether there are pods installed or the stock airbox is there.

If you are taking a break that's fine. Just don't give up. We got this.

What I'm asking is what work have you done since you road the bike home after you bought it?

Thanks for following up. I didn't have time to check the float bowl levels using the clear tube method yet, but I am planning on doing it today. I also am waiting on the carb sync tool in the mail - should be here today or tomorrow.

I bought the bike with a Vance and Hines 4 to 1 exhaust on it. I put on pod filters and had the mechanic put new jets in it to account for the pods and exhaust in April. That's about all I did with respect to the performance. I had to replace the oil pan, buy a new brake master cylinder and replace brake lines, rebuild the calipers, rebuild the petcock, and do a bit of rewiring to get it to start and run safely.

I'm also thinking I need to replace the timing tensioner because there is some clanking at low rpms when cold (haven't paid attention or noticed when warm). Besides, I'm sure the whole timing drive hasn't been serviced in it's 36 year life so it couldn't hurt.

Yeah I think you have a carburetor issue there. When you are in there make note of what size jets are in there. How does it run at speed?

I get to play with mine now because it was raining gas out the bottom today after I parked it. I know the levels are off on that bike. We going to wait till I got another one running but oh well.

So I got the carb sync tool today and I checked the float levels using the clear tube method.

Two carbs were a little low on the float level but I didn't think it was that bad...
I set up to run the carb sync tool and I immediately started leaking gas out of one of the air filters on one of the carbs that was slightly low. It was like gushing out of the filter, worse than I've seen.

So I decided to check out the float levels and they all measured about 1" +/- one sixteenth. Now I know that's not too precise because I only had a tape measure, but I'm gonna borrow a caliper from work tomorrow and remeasure. Only thing is I don't know what the exact height should be. I read somewhere that it should be 26mm but I don't think that was for an LTD.

Also I don't know how to adjust the float level. Literally every video I found just tells you what it should look like, not how to actually *change* the height. I'm guessing I have to just bend the tang that reacts against the spring on the needle?

If the tang has too much of an angle it will cock the needle to the side and it won't seal properly. It should be almost flush with the float arms. If not bend the arms slightly and be sure they are even.
Steve

One inch from what????
I am not familiar with the 750 specs, but I'd bet the fuel level should be +/- 3mm from where the float bowl and the carb body meet.

Yeah, bend the little tab, so frickken arcane I know. Just got finished bending my little tabs on the geep so it isn't leaking gas anymore but the auto shutoff that ceased shutting off needs a rebuild kit or better yet get pitched into the trash and replaced with a real shutoff.

Okay so enough bitching from me. Any crud in the bowls? What happened on mine was there was crud in the middle 2 bowls and that likely held the float needle open. I'm not running a fuel filter at the moment and that is going to change.

And your right, the float level while important and part of the mix isn't going to affect the running as much as other items on the list.

Oh, and if you planning to maintain your motorcycle yourself, which I highly recommend then purchase, download, borrow or steal a manual.

The other question I had was how does the bike run off idle, like at 30 mph with the throttle open. The carb sync affects mostly the idle and the just off idle responsiveness of the engine. When those slides are open it matters not that much. I'm thinking it best to start with a good bench sync because I just went through this not long ago with my LTD. The manual will tell you how to do a bench sync.

Do me a favor when you get chance. Go to YouTube and type in Bruce Lee - water- teapot and report back