Idle drops when shifting from neutral to first

Vacuum line into carb 1 attaches to carb 4


Carb 4 vacuum line and carb 3 plug (where my finger is pointing


Carb 2 vacuum line that normally plugs into the petcock but is plugged because tank is removed.

I'M AN IDIOT!

I disconnected the coils when checking the compression and forgot to reconnect them so there was no spark coming from the plugs -___-

Next problem:

My carb sync tool is either broken or I screwed something up. The needles all jump back and forth so fast that I can't read it. The needles turn like +/-180 degrees so fast that all you see is a white semi-circle.

EDIT: this is at idle. when I give it throttle the needles don't jump so much, they all kind of waver around the same point

"I'm an idiot"

That's the type of self deprecation i like to see. I usually add a few descriptors of a foul language to preface those words for myself but it's a good start.

For the syncronizer it. should have come with some plastic inline valves that you'll screw down to dampen the vacuum and bring the needles to a more readable, less bouncy range.

Wouldn't want those to gauges to hurt themselves at this point.

Got it! The carbs are all synced up and it idles great! No change when shifting between first and neutral.

Fixed it just in time for the rain...

Oh well, it's supposed to be good weather tomorrow!

Hopefully the bench sync got you real close. As you adjust one you'll see it affects the others. Try not to get too far afield thereby altering the bench sync too much by turning any particular adjuster too much.

Again , the sync affects the idle, just off idle and the throttle responsiveness at low throttle openings.

Oh man, that's what I was waiting to hear!

Now, next time someone has a problem like yours it's your job to help.

It's s great feeling ain't it?

Just a few items I was thinking about earlier that you mentioned that went unaddressed that are important.

The sparking on your negative terminal should be corrected especially when fuel leaking is present because you don't want to burn up the bike now that it's running better. Check that wire and terminals to ensure that everything is clean and sound. That wire grounds to the engine block so make sure everything is up to snuff. If by some small chance it still occurs check The battery neg post itself. Sometimes, they loosen up.

The other is over torquing your spark plugs, or under torquing them or any bolt or nut for that matter. I don't think I've ever torqued a spark plug with torque wrench ever and I've never had a seized plug or a stripped hole. But with the dissimilar metals I will use a little anti seize compound in the threads when it's available.

As far as torque for certain nuts and bolts then I do religiously. Chassis and engine bolt s by all means torque them to spec. Buy a good torque wrench if possible.

I'm actually going to invest in a better one at this point in time because it will be used a lot with what I've got going on right now and I want everything to be correct.I

I think that's it.