Changing main jets without pulling carbs

Hi all. Is it possible to replace the main jets on a kz650 without removing the carbs? I was thinking I’d get a 90 degree screw driver adapter, anyone ever done it? The question really is, does anyone know that there is space enough to reach in and do it?

I haven't changed jets, but I have pulled the bowls and dealt with a sticky float valve. The screwdriver tip below and a small mirror made it possible. Ed

Why not just remove the carbs. It's rather simple.

Ed's tools are pretty slick..... I remember using a stubby but even then I had to cut off 3/8 or a 1/2 inch off the handle if I remember right...... I did the clear tube test with em on....... I almost think it would be easier too remove the carbs too although those air box rubbers can be a pain.... part of the reason I like the APE pods. My smooth bores have the main right under the drain plug so they are really easy to get too but as you know not so much on the 24s.

jakedude wrote: Why not just remove the carbs. It's rather simple.

It really depends on how much work one plans to do on the carbs. I've owned my KZ650-C1 for a bit more than 40 years. During that time I have removed the carbs twice. Once was to clean them after I screwed up and let them sit with fuel in them for a little more than a year and once to replace leaking carb holders. Removing and reinstalling the carbs is a bit of a pain, but not really a major undertaking. However, to simply clean dirty float valves or other fairly straightforward tasks I would not remove the carbs. This is because removing the carb bowls with the carbs still mounted on the engine takes very little time or effort to do, and many tasks can then be performed. If a task can be performed by simply removing the carb bowls for access there's no need to remove the fuel tank, fiddle with the throttle cables, unhook and remove the airbox boots, loosen the airbox brackets, etc., etc. In the time it would take to remove the carbs from the engine and sit them on the bench I could clean a couple dirty float valves and be out riding the bike. Ed

jakedude wrote: Why not just remove the carbs. It's rather simple.

Ed's reply captures most of my thoughts. My air intake ducts are quite brittle at this point, despite having done the oil of wintergreen soaked recommended here and elsewhere, and that makes it a PITA to take the whole rack off.
Thanks ed for your advice, I think I'll go in with stubby/90deg tools. Lots of work to be done on the bike currently, so I'm happy to be efficient with the time i have to work on it.

Like the ratchet set-up above that Ed suggests and work well, I also use this 4" extension from Craftsman which has worked too !

I want one. :ohmy:
Steve

Description Item # 00904336000P Model # 04336

Craftsman Flex Extension Bar, 1/4 in. Drive Reaches Tight Places

For those nuts and bolts in tight or awkward places that a standard drive ratchet can't reach, this flex extension bar, 1/4 in. drive from Craftsman comes to the rescue. The flex gets you around parts that are blocking the area you need to get to and its 4-inch length gives you that much additional length to work with.

Use the Craftsman flex extension bar, 1/4 in. drive with 1/4-inch sockets on the end of a thumb wheel ratchet or a spinner handle that accepts a thumb wheel ratchet and reach that bolt that's stuck in a maze of obstacles blocking your way. Made from sturdy yet flexible alloy steel, this extension bar comes with the Craftsman lifetime warranty.

Reach nuts and bolts in those tight, impossible places with the flex extension bar, 1/4 in. drive
Ideal for low-torque applications...

I have personally found that having the socket cap (allen) screws in place of phillips on the float bowls makes them easier to get to- either with an allen key or a 1/4 socket. Definitely nice to be able to do if you're adjusting floats and don't want / need to take the whole rack off repeatedly just to adjust one single carb!

Perhaps could reach socket head screws with ¼" hex head socket.



Good Fortune!