VM28 Mikunis KZ1000E2

Can anybody tell me where these go and how. I fugure the pump but manual is not here yet. Looking at diagrams.

R

your float bowls have one of each of those. check ball brass weight and an e clip to hold them in .
so youll need 4 of each

Thanks Strum. Is there a ball for each one? #2 and #3 had a clip holding them in. 1 and 4 I just put the brass weight in the hole in bowl and closed em up. I put the bll in the accelerator pump galley in #2.

R

I may have found it.
Steve
jetsrus.com/individual_parts/KL_18_2903.html

yes there should be a ball brass weight and clip in each one. there is also one in the accelerator pump as noted in Steves link but its only whith the kind with a double pump.

heres a link your parts are 47 48 49
the o ring no 46 goes on the bottom of the sprayer

www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Kawasaki/...%28USA%29/parts.html

Yep, got it. Thank you Strum and Steve. I'll have to locate two clips and two balls. When I first opened carb bowls the weights and one ball came out of its port in #1 and #4. 2 and 3 had them clipped properly. My carbs have the single diaphragm pump. R

I figure I can get the steel balls at my machine shop. The clamp thing looks easy enough to make. Spring steel wire. R

Some owners have reportedly disabled the pump and tuned the carbs for a strong, steady pull-away from idle without the pump.
This decision may be due in some part to reports of tiny orifices in pump components being difficult to keep clean.
Am vaguely recalling some posts about this by wired george.

Some examples:

wiredgeorge wrote: This is correct... same exact issues as the carburetors are physically identical. I know what you mean about the accelerator pump. I personally am not a fan. About 2/3 of the pump assemblies that come through our shop are NOT working... when the pump doesn't work, the bike will run but without that shot of gas when the throttle is twisted, they are not smooth and the jetting is no longer up to the task, even with a stock airbox. We are fully able to make the pumps work and we rebuild/verify each pump assembly but they are an addition complication. We remove the pump assemblies and pump bowls from several dozen sets a year and convert them to non-pump for this reason.

wiredgeorge wrote: Honestly, there is no advantage to having an accelerator pump at all. I believe that the 2nd diaphragm cuts off air when the throttle is shut. I am not positive. The accelerator pump was put on a number of Kaw models in 1979... KZ650 and KZ1000. If you look at the jetting on the A2 models; especially the KZ1000A2A you can see some inherent problems with leanness. I suspect Kaw didn't want to richen the idle mixture to get through whatever EPA standard was set at the time... I suspect one of the tests was emission output at idle. Anyway, The bike can idle away all day with the very large slide cut out, very small needle jet and lean jet needle and #15 pilot jet. Problem is, at some point, somebody has to ride the thing and the first thing you do is TAKE OFF from a stop. The lean setting on the pilot mixture screw ensured that the bike would boggggggg... you would have to rev the engine quite a bit to make it move especially when not fully warmed. I guess that since Kaw would not want to put in writing that you had to ride around on choke for 15 minutes (very rich mixture and the smog police might read this), they stuck the pump on. ONE squirt of gas as the throttle is opened. It helps in the mid-range where the jet needle/needle jet combo is similarly lean. The pump made the bike rideable.

Just like any other band-aid type fix, there are better ways around the issue. We probably convert 50 sets of pumper carbs a year to non-pumper at the owners request. Why? The pump has VERY VERY VERY small fuel pickup hole in the bottom of #2 carb. Then it goes through a check valve. Guess what happens if the bike sits for a few weeks? Gas goo in the little hole and the valve. It is tough to clear. The atomizing holes in the pump nozzles in the carb venturis are also in need of checking EVERY time you turn around. They are small and you can't poke a wire through them. They are hard to clear.

OK... what happens when the pump quits pumping? In lean bog and poor performance show its ugly face. The secret is to get rid of the pump system (change bowls) and rejet properly. I won't go into how to rejet as there are a number of different situations as far as airbox/pipes/mods and carb models that make a one-rejet-tip-fits-all answer kind of hard to come up with.

Clean that bare spot on the bottom good and look for a brass bb inserted into the hole. If you drill out the bb, you can convert the single pump to double but you would need the missing cover and the other diaphragm and spring. Now some of this stuff I noted is conjecture... a best guess based on memory of the time (late 70s), knowledge of the industry and some guesses. I could be wrong on some of the facts but that is how I see it. I am glad the EPA police did there job. I remember playing golf out on Haynes point in 1976 and hitting the ball in the air and not being able to see the ball for all the yellow emissions smog in the air. The air is definitely cleaner now!

Good Fortune!

My 33's had a pump in them at some point. The slides are 2.0 Stock 28's non pump are 1.5 If you have 1.5 slides it should be easy to jet like the early ones. I had 17.5 pilots and 125 mains. When I get home today I'll look up what my needles and nozzles are. They changed them between models 73-75. I've been looking for a pump for mine but after reading what George had to say, I think I'm better off without it.
Steve

I spoke with a gentleman who know these carbs well and the first thing he said was that pump is a joke.
and he basicly told me all the things Wiredgeorge said.
and he went on to tell me how to disable mine.
so far mine works well and i havnt got up the nerve lol .
heres what he said.
you can easily press out the brass nozzles. and use JB weld to fill holes.
then he takes out the check balls and fills those holes
then he cuts off the brass tubes that connect the bowls together and fills those flush.
then of course the diaphragm and linkage is tossed. and I think there may be another hole to plug in the bowl with the pump.
off course if you can get some bowls from non pumper that fit then that would be an even better way to go.

I'd think filling the feeders to the pump would do it.I don't like making changes that can't be reverced.
Steve