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Help Diagnose my No-Start
- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
Steve
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swest wrote: You don't have a manual?
Steve
Unfortunately no. I had a digital copy somewhere but i cant seem to find it.
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The points don't begin to gap until here:
which is almost a quarter turn farther, even with the plate adjusted as far Counter Clockwise as it will go. So something is way off... thoughts?
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- SWest
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Steve
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swest wrote: Turn the cam 180* on the rotor.
Steve
What exactly do you mean (pictures would be appreciated)? Sorry that I"m still learning this.
I thought you meant rotate this 180* (I believe it's called the Advancer UNit)
But the notch on the back of it lines up with this notch :
so there is no way to rotate it. More info would be appreciated!
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What do I need to turn 180*?
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Modrummer wrote:
The engine never idled, but i was able to get it to rev up and i could keep it running with the throttle. Bike had been sitting in a garage for almost 20 years previously. When i did get it to start (before i knew it needed a carb rebuild) the carbs overflowed and i believe some of the gas got into the engine. I drained the oil immediately after and replaced with new oil.Patton wrote: Did the engine start and run before the recent carb rebuild?
Good Fortune!
Is it possible that that did something to stop the motor from starting?
was able to get it to rev up and i could keep it running with the throttle -- would indicate that the electrical connections and advancer assembly were most likely all okay, with issue being a clogged pilot circuit and/or a clogged choke circuit. Hopefully the electrical connections were not altered and the advancer assembly was not altered.
Bike had been sitting in a garage for almost 20 years previously. When i did get it to start (before i knew it needed a carb rebuild) the carbs overflowed and i believe some of the gas got into the engine. I drained the oil immediately after and replaced with new oil. Is it possible that that did something to stop the motor from starting? -- No. The fact that gasoline got into the crankcase which necessitated an oil change would not in and of itself do anything to stop the motor from starting.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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Here's how it's supposed to function:
The heel of the points rides on the cam;
As the cam rotates, the heel climbs the cam which opens the points; and the heel then descends the cam which allows the points to close.
The opening of the points is the event that's supposed to cause the ignition coil to simultaneously fire both spark plugs.
The rotor in the advancer assembly will be correctly positioned if the heel starts climbing the cam as the F mark aligns with the permanent timing mark on the engine case.
On some models it's possible to have the rotor installed 180 degrees off, which means that the points won't open as the F mark aligns with the permanent timing mark on the engine case.
Assure that the advancer assembly is installed so that the heel starts climbing the cam as the F mark aligns with the permanent timing mark on the engine case.
Good Fortune!
.
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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Steve
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Points
Points opening (coil primary wiring un-grounds, causing firing)
Points closed (coil primary wiring is grounded and charging)
Dyna-S
Magnet passes by pick-up module (coil primary wiring un-grounds, causing firing)
Magnet away from pick-up module (coil primary winding is grounded and charging)
Stock with Igniter
Pointed rotor area passes by pick-up module (coil primary wiring un-grounds, causing firing)
Pointed rotor area away from pick-up module (coil primary wiring is grounded and charging)
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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Patton wrote: With points ignition, there's a cam on the rotor that's part of the advancer assembly.
Here's how it's supposed to function:
The heel of the points rides on the cam;
As the cam rotates, the heel climbs the cam which opens the points; and the heel then descends the cam which allows the points to close.
The opening of the points is the event that's supposed to cause the ignition coil to simultaneously fire both spark plugs.
The rotor in the advancer assembly will be correctly positioned if the heel starts climbing the cam as the F mark aligns with the permanent timing mark on the engine case.
On some models it's possible to have the rotor installed 180 degrees off, which means that the points won't open as the F mark aligns with the permanent timing mark on the engine case.
Assure that the advancer assembly is installed so that the heel starts climbing the cam as the F mark aligns with the permanent timing mark on the engine case.
Good Fortune!
.
Ok so the problem I'm having is that even with the timing as advanced as it can be, the point's don't start to open till a little after the "T" mark. Could this be worn out points?
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Also, just to double check, the port I have circled here is just a vacuum port for the vacuum petcocks correct? I have this capped off normally since I have an aftermarket fuel petcock.
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