Help Diagnose my No-Start

You don't have a manual?
Steve

swest wrote: You don't have a manual?
Steve

Unfortunately no. I had a digital copy somewhere but i cant seem to find it.

Ok so I decided to check my timing. Here's what I found: the points should be just starting to gap when the "F" mark lines up with the mark on the crankcase. Here's what mine look like with the "F" mark lined up:

The points don't begin to gap until here:

which is almost a quarter turn farther, even with the plate adjusted as far Counter Clockwise as it will go. So something is way off... thoughts?

Turn the cam 180* on the rotor.
Steve

swest wrote: Turn the cam 180* on the rotor.
Steve

What exactly do you mean (pictures would be appreciated)? Sorry that I"m still learning this.

I thought you meant rotate this 180* (I believe it's called the Advancer UNit)

But the notch on the back of it lines up with this notch :

so there is no way to rotate it. More info would be appreciated!

Anyone able to answer the above question for me?

What do I need to turn 180*?

Modrummer wrote:

Patton wrote: Did the engine start and run before the recent carb rebuild?
Good Fortune!

The engine never idled, but i was able to get it to rev up and i could keep it running with the throttle. Bike had been sitting in a garage for almost 20 years previously. When i did get it to start (before i knew it needed a carb rebuild) the carbs overflowed and i believe some of the gas got into the engine. I drained the oil immediately after and replaced with new oil.
Is it possible that that did something to stop the motor from starting?

was able to get it to rev up and i could keep it running with the throttle -- would indicate that the electrical connections and advancer assembly were most likely all okay, with issue being a clogged pilot circuit and/or a clogged choke circuit. Hopefully the electrical connections were not altered and the advancer assembly was not altered.

Bike had been sitting in a garage for almost 20 years previously. When i did get it to start (before i knew it needed a carb rebuild) the carbs overflowed and i believe some of the gas got into the engine. I drained the oil immediately after and replaced with new oil. Is it possible that that did something to stop the motor from starting? -- No. The fact that gasoline got into the crankcase which necessitated an oil change would not in and of itself do anything to stop the motor from starting.

Good Fortune!

With points ignition, there's a cam on the rotor that's part of the advancer assembly.

Here's how it's supposed to function:

The heel of the points rides on the cam;

As the cam rotates, the heel climbs the cam which opens the points; and the heel then descends the cam which allows the points to close.

The opening of the points is the event that's supposed to cause the ignition coil to simultaneously fire both spark plugs.

The rotor in the advancer assembly will be correctly positioned if the heel starts climbing the cam as the F mark aligns with the permanent timing mark on the engine case.

On some models it's possible to have the rotor installed 180 degrees off, which means that the points won't open as the F mark aligns with the permanent timing mark on the engine case.

Assure that the advancer assembly is installed so that the heel starts climbing the cam as the F mark aligns with the permanent timing mark on the engine case.

Good Fortune!




.

Doesn't sound in your case the cam is 180* off. Pilots clogged most likely. It is however possible to have the cam off. I bought a low mile one and rebuilt mine with the parts. I noted how it was before so that wouldn't happen.
Steve

All the different ignition systems have a means whereby the coil's primary winding becomes repetitively un-grounded (event causing coil to fire) and then re-grounded (coil charges), and then again un-grounded . . . etc, etc.

Points
Points opening (coil primary wiring un-grounds, causing firing)
Points closed (coil primary wiring is grounded and charging)

Dyna-S
Magnet passes by pick-up module (coil primary wiring un-grounds, causing firing)
Magnet away from pick-up module (coil primary winding is grounded and charging)

Stock with Igniter
Pointed rotor area passes by pick-up module (coil primary wiring un-grounds, causing firing)
Pointed rotor area away from pick-up module (coil primary wiring is grounded and charging)






Good Fortune!

Patton wrote: With points ignition, there's a cam on the rotor that's part of the advancer assembly.

Here's how it's supposed to function:

The heel of the points rides on the cam;

As the cam rotates, the heel climbs the cam which opens the points; and the heel then descends the cam which allows the points to close.

The opening of the points is the event that's supposed to cause the ignition coil to simultaneously fire both spark plugs.

The rotor in the advancer assembly will be correctly positioned if the heel starts climbing the cam as the F mark aligns with the permanent timing mark on the engine case.

On some models it's possible to have the rotor installed 180 degrees off, which means that the points won't open as the F mark aligns with the permanent timing mark on the engine case.

Assure that the advancer assembly is installed so that the heel starts climbing the cam as the F mark aligns with the permanent timing mark on the engine case.

Good Fortune!




.

Ok so the problem I'm having is that even with the timing as advanced as it can be, the point's don't start to open till a little after the "T" mark. Could this be worn out points?

Thanks for all the info and pictures. I can actually see the spark between the points every rotation so they seem to be functioning correctly aside from the fact that with the timing fully advanced they still don't begin to open till after the "T" mark.

Also, just to double check, the port I have circled here is just a vacuum port for the vacuum petcocks correct? I have this capped off normally since I have an aftermarket fuel petcock.