carb part questions.

I bought a set of 28 pumpers just to have a spare set for my shaft.
I know how to tear em down and clean , jet etc.. what i dont know is where to buy parts such as bowl gaskets orings ect.
My goal is to completely disassemble -clean- replace any o-rings,gaskets blah blah .
The kits im seeing has a lot of stuff i dont need.. and i have heard the bowl gaskets are junk..
mainly if i can get good quality (reusable) bowl gaskets i think i can come up with o-rings..
this set is unmolested and looks good but the bowl gaskets and pump diaphram are in need of replacement..
thanks guys..
stan

After many many years of rebuilding old bike carbs... I have come to the conclusion that 90%-95% of the aftermarket carb parts stuff is UTTER TRASH.
Try to salvage every damn thing you can from the original carbs... especially all the brass parts.
It is astonishing how well you can bring them back to life with proper cleaning and burnishing.
Cheap gaskets are a crap shoot and fuel proof O'rings can be found all over the place.

I have never, car, truck, boat, mower, snow blower bought a carb kit, they're junk, genuine mikuni if you need brass, otherwise just get a decent set of bowl gaskets (Z1E has them, but... Well, they have a phone number) otherwise just find any good quality o-rings and clean everything thoroughly.

Best one I did was my gl1000, there's one quality carb kit out there ($300 ish) and that was too much cash to me. I just threw in some o-rings and re-used the bowl gaskets, cost $10 or so to rebuild in total.

I think all my hard parts are good so z1 for the bowl gaskets then? I have reused many factory gaskets but these are done..

I use a little smear of axle grease and been reusing my bowl gaskets for years.
Steve

Cycleorings.com sells a standard VM carb O-ring kit. Not sure how well all the various parts match up with the pumper carbs but it's cheap enough and will get you started. I've assembled my own carb O-ring kits from loose O-rings purchased from McMaster-=Carr. It takes some study to get the proper sizes but it's doable. I found everything needed for the BS CV carbs except for the pilot screw O-rings. Those are speciality O-rings and not easy to find.

I picked up a metric o,ring set that was gas proof. They have come i,n handy. R

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationSays they are Kawasaki OEM reproduction , made in Japan

Pete

Maybe I've just been lucky, but I've used the K&L kits on 3 sets of carbs so for with no issues. I just finished a set of 28mm pumpers for the 80 Z1R I'm currently working on last weekend. K&L is made in Japan, so I wouldn't be surprised if the brass was coming from the same supplier as Mikuni . I don't have anyway to verify the accuracy of jet's actual bore, but the jets tread in smooth with no binding.
I keep all my carb parts together, so I happened to have a set of brand new Genuine Kawasaki bowl gaskets I bought for my Z1. The K&L kit gaskets were a little thicker. The bowl gaskets on the 28's fit down inside a lip on the carb body. These were a nice snug fit with no overlap or gaps. Those carbs are still dry at this point. They'll be wet this weekend when I check the float levels and Accelerator pump spray. I have had K&L gaskets in my Z1 for 5 years and Z1B for 3 with no leaks. I expect the same with these.
The kits do come with extra parts as they cover several models. Mine came with 102.5 and 105 mains for both the US and European spec models. They also came with little aluminum replacement air screw cover inserts, as the US models are supposed to be non-adjustable sealed for emissions laws.
Besides leaking gaskets and varnish build up, the biggest issue with old carbs is typically the float needle. They wear and stick causing low bowl levels or fuel dumping from the overflow. The K&L kit includes a complete new float needle/seat assembly. If I could only replace one item on an old carb, it would be the float valve.
There may be cheap Chinese carb kits out there, but there are good ones as well. I'm a fan of the K&L kits and will continue to use them. Finding sources for the all the little parts individually would be time consuming and and cost 2-3 time as much anyway.

Rarely if ever have I changed out the bowl gaskets. The simple fact is that if your floats are set correctly the fuel will never get up to the gaskets. Personally if I had a float needle quit working correctly I'd rather have the fuel leak out the bowl gaskets than just keep draining into the cylinders and engine.

jdvorchak wrote: Rarely if ever have I changed out the bowl gaskets. The simple fact is that if your floats are set correctly the fuel will never get up to the gaskets. Personally if I had a float needle quit working correctly I'd rather have the fuel leak out the bowl gaskets than just keep draining into the cylinders and engine.

Even with the correct height, fuel will hit the gaskets every time you corner, brake, accelerate or hit a bump.

Wheelies, stoppies, and wrecks, too.

I stand corrected