95 kz1000p carburetor issues

I just bought a 95 kz1000p, the guy said it had carb issues. Specifically the number one carb was dumping fuel. I got the carbs off and opened up and found that the number one had a small lock washer under the main jet instead of the correct size metal washer. I am wondering if that is what may have caused the fuel dumping issues since it's the only thing I see wrong with the carb.

Put the floats on water and see if they all float the same. The lock washer would make it leak and make it run rich, not overflow. Check your needles and seats too.
Steve

I would put the right washer back in, but the fuel dumping is more likely a neadle and seat problem. maybe just some grit of some kind. Another possible cause could be a leaky float.
swest types faster than me.
Jerry

This is what I was thinking as well. I put the right washer in already. I noticed the float valves on the #1 and 2 carbs don't spring back like 3 and 4 do. I'll try cleaning them and if that doesn't help I'll just replace them. Thanks for the quick replies and help.

Carb spray might help. The little springs inside the needles can get gummed up. Polishing the seats with a Q tip dipped in polishing compound and a drill can help too.
Steve

Here is a rebuild tutorial that may help you... zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_...Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf
It was written using a set of Mikuni BS CV's from a Suzuki but the Kawasaki version BS carbs are very similar.

Take note that the proper way to clean the carbs includes unganging them and fully stripping them down. I've redone a pile of those carbs and every set I've touched had hard and brittle O-rings on the interconnection tubes, and the only way to replace them is by breaking down the carbs first.

I'd advise against purchasing "rebuild kits", instead just purchase the various O-rings and keep all the various original parts. One possible exception is the float needles; if the little spring won't hold up the weight of the float without compression I'd replace the needles.

Also, don't skip the fuel level verification test. This will show if you have sticking float needles. And take close note of how to remove the float pins without busting off one of the float posts.

Good luck

That's very common. Bust the post, then sell them on eBay.
Steve

swest wrote: That's very common. Bust the post, then sell them on eBay.
Steve

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

I use an automatic center punch to remove the float pins works great a couple hits and the pin pops free.

Couple more quick questions. I removed the float valve retainers but how do you get the float valve assemblies out? I don't want to dick them up with pliers. Also the pilot jets have a brass plug on them, again I don't want to mess them up so how should I remove those? I appreciate all the help you guys have given since this is my first mikuni carb rebuild.

Pics would help.
Steve

www.dropbox.com/s/bx68p5af23g9svn/20160111_154757.jpg?dl=0

Hope that works, you can see the pilot jet plugs look staked in.