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How Many Turns for the Idle Mixing Screws on KZP?
- bl_francis
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From what I can see in my Clymer manual these are sealed at the factory with a metal cap for the US models but does anyone know how many turns these should have?
My mechanic is working on my bike right now and it is running rich when it's cold outside. Spark plugs are black, etc.
#3 in diagram below \/
Attachment IMG_3228.jpg not found
Thanks in advance!
1987 KZ1000 Police
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- DFIGPZ
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1984 750 Turbo
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- Jussumguy
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Good luck, don't give up and report back when you get them right!
Rich
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- ThatGPzGuy
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Jim
North GA
2016 Yamaha FJR1300ES
1982 GPz750 R1
1974 Kawasaki H1
1976 Kawasaki KZ400
1979 Yamaha XS650 cafe'
2001 KZ1000P
2001 Yamaha YZ426
1981 Honda XR200 stroked in an '89 CR125 chassis
1965 Mustang
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1976 Bronco
"If you didn't build it, it's not really yours"
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- jackleberry
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ThatGPzGuy wrote: A Colortune is very helpful in adjusting the fuel screws.
On a scale of one to ten, how helpful would you say it is? I have one and I would rate it at about a 2. Better than nothing, but not really helpful at all in terms of getting the mixtures dialed in for either best economy or best performance. Do you know something I don't?
1997 KZ1000P (P16)
2001 KZ1000P (P20)
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- Jussumguy
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- ThatGPzGuy
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jackleberry wrote:
ThatGPzGuy wrote: A Colortune is very helpful in adjusting the fuel screws.
On a scale of one to ten, how helpful would you say it is? I have one and I would rate it at about a 2. Better than nothing, but not really helpful at all in terms of getting the mixtures dialed in for either best economy or best performance. Do you know something I don't?
Probably not. I have to compare it to what I used to do which was put them all at whatever I was told the factory setting was then try to figure out why I was getting a lean surge or had no power on top. With the Colortune I can back the screws out until it's running fat and then slowly dial it in until I see a nice blue flame. Is it tuning for maximum anything? Probably not, but since I did that with my GPz it has never run better.
Jim
North GA
2016 Yamaha FJR1300ES
1982 GPz750 R1
1974 Kawasaki H1
1976 Kawasaki KZ400
1979 Yamaha XS650 cafe'
2001 KZ1000P
2001 Yamaha YZ426
1981 Honda XR200 stroked in an '89 CR125 chassis
1965 Mustang
1967 Triumph GT6
1976 Bronco
"If you didn't build it, it's not really yours"
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- undiablo
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Cylinder 1 --> 2 1/2 turns
Cylinder 2 --> 2 3/4 turns
Cylinder 3 --> 2 turns
Cylinder 4 --> 2 1/4 turns
I have the Colortune, it is usefull. But I thinks is better to hear the RPM change when adjusting the misxture screw.
Bike have never ran better.
Kawasaki KZ 750/4 LTD 1981
Kawasaki KLR 650 2011
Argentina - Buenos Aires
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- jackleberry
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Jussumguy wrote: If you put a set of vacume gauges on and adjust the mixture screws till you get the greatest vacume , wouldn't that be the way to go about it? Then sink them and you're done ya? It's been a long time since auto class in high school!
Yeah, that works too and is the most accurate way I've found to do it without an EGA. However, it's still a situation where you have like a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn range where the vacuum reading is the same (just due to the sensitivity of the measurement ) but the mixture (and performance) is not. So you're still left just 'in the ballpark' of the correct settings.
1997 KZ1000P (P16)
2001 KZ1000P (P20)
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- Jussumguy
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The story I read said to get max vacume and then turn the screws in about a 1/4 turn and call it good. I'm excited and want to do my carbs again!
Crazy!!!
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- redhawk4
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1978 KZ1000A2 Wiseco 1075 kit
1977 KZ650B1
1973 Triumph Tiger TR7V
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Old enough to know better, still too young to care
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- SWest
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Steve
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