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An attempt at pod customization (440)
- Stauffer1024
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I was thinking about trying 1" inlets to start, I'm not too keen on how to calculate the volumetric efficiency but I figure i can keep shaving away parts of the reducer in case the inlet must be made larger.
I plan to run the 97.5 jets rather than the 102.5s.
Any advice would be well appreciated.
Will post results!
1980 KZ440 Ltd.
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- SWest
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losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/mcy/5297939256.html
Or this,
sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcy/5259934323.html
Maybe even like this,
inlandempire.craigslist.org/mcy/5303879432.html
Once done it will never be like this again.
sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcy/5277950270.html
BTW, no one is buying.
Steve
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- Stauffer1024
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1980 KZ440 Ltd.
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- martin_csr
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(amazon.com --- CU-476 Aluminum Econobox).
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- dom2570
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I also have a 440 that flat out refused to run without the full airbox. I found the lid or snorkel on eBay for $25. It ran like a champ.
If you really really want pods, it is much easier to just buy some mikuni round slides and go from there. Several places even sell prejetted kits.
www.speedmotoco.com/mobile/Product.aspx?id=2683
B
If you do manage to get it running correctly with pods, definitely do a write up on it. Many people have tried, but few have pulled it off.
Whip it like a mule!
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- Stauffer1024
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Anyway my Idea was to port the pods to reduce airflow so I could go down to a more reasonable jet size. I chose 97.5s from the sigma jet kit on eBay.
I acquired 1.5" to 1" sch40 reducers off this site www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-429-211-1-1-2...Mpr39Lue-BoCVeHw_wcB
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As you can see they fit very nicely into the pod filters I have.
Next, I cut down the reducers and made them fit more easily into the rubber by grinding down the diameter on the conical portion of the reducer.
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Inserted the reducers into my pods and affixed them to the carbs. Here's what they look like. I believe the reducer sleeve sticking out into the pod will reduce the effect of crosswinds.
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I turned it over and it started right up with no choke after sitting cold with an outside temp of 45°F.
It runs smoother than it had previously in my opinion. I'll have to mess with it more. It's soon to have new exhaust pipes (WITH BAFFLES) and I'm excited to see how it affects performance.
My biggest issue I've been having since the start of all this is that I lose a lot of power at midrange and end up having to shift around 4k.
Would shimming the needle help with this at all? I also think somebody messed with the idle screw. I set them to 1.75 turns out from snug. Would anybody be able to let me know what their idle screw is set to so I can start from a more stock position?
Here's my project so far btw. 1980 KZ440A ltd. Started with a frame and an engine and I found everything else from donor bikes. First bike.
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1980 KZ440 Ltd.
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- jdvorchak
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So what I was thinking is what would the affect of cutting the slide return spring down a turn or two. Less spring pressure might just help. That being said I wouldn't cut my springs. They are too hard to find and too expensive. But if a guy had access to some junk carbs to play with? Would be a whole lot easier to tune since moist of these bikes you can remove the cap and springs while the carbs are still installed.
Just brainstorming here. Never heard of it being tried.
Don't fix it until it's broken.
John
83 KZ550M1
83 KZ1100LTD
Also own:
2010 Harley Ultra Classic Limited, 2008 Harley low rider 71 CB350/sidecar
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- SWest
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Steve
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- jdvorchak
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swest wrote: Looks like you need carb holders.
Steve
so you don't think all that red RTV is OEM?
Don't fix it until it's broken.
John
83 KZ550M1
83 KZ1100LTD
Also own:
2010 Harley Ultra Classic Limited, 2008 Harley low rider 71 CB350/sidecar
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- Stauffer1024
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1980 KZ440 Ltd.
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