Frustrated with my TK22 carbs...

Also check the holes in the emulsifier tube. Some idiot may have drilled those out as well. To my eye your main does look larger than the stock and running mains.

Ok just re-read your last post about no dice when you have the correct mains installed. I'd be looking at the advancer to make sure it's moving free. Also check your charging voltage at 2500+ rpm and make sure it's above 14 VDC. That is really reaching for straws but worth a shot and only takes a minute.

jdvorchak wrote: Also check the holes in the emulsifier tube. Some idiot may have drilled those out as well. To my eye your main does look larger than the stock and running mains.

Yeah, the Po did that to my 33's. I had to solder the extra holes and the flat spot went away.
Steve

Are you letting the bike warm up fully? With stock jetting, you will have to use the choke for several miles if it's cool out, like 50 deg F.

Is there a way you can put the carbs back to where you started... pods and jetting?
That might be the best place to start.

Anything beyond 1/4 throttle is no good, even if you roll the throttle very slowly? What happens if the choke is on?

I'm having issues that seems the kind of run along with this thread. I'm currently working on a 550 LTD my issue is when I hit about 70mph it'll run good for a few minutes and then just slowly cut in and out until I back the speed back down to about 65mph I cannot get above 70 mph it doesn't just shut off or bog out it just has no more power . Anyone have an idea why ? I have to replaced the lower half of the carburetor with all its stock settings just new parts I have not replaced the needle.

Looks like you lean out your fuel/air mixture by low fuel flow or carb jetting/needle adjustmentm@ higher speed. Clean/adjust your carb internals, renew fuel filter, tank cap vent, fuel level in the bowl to spec.

TimKZ550 wrote: I'm having issues that seems the kind of run along with this thread. I'm currently working on a 550 LTD my issue is when I hit about 70mph it'll run good for a few minutes and then just slowly cut in and out until I back the speed back down to about 65mph I cannot get above 70 mph it doesn't just shut off or bog out it just has no more power . Anyone have an idea why ? I have to replaced the lower half of the carburetor with all its stock settings just new parts I have not replaced the needle.

There are many things that can cause this. You would be best off making sure the motor is good before digging into the carbs too much.

Check compression and valve clearances first. Read the warning in my signature before opening the valve cover.
And if you don't have a factory manual, download one (or all of them actually) from the links in my signature.

loudhvx wrote:

TimKZ550 wrote: I'm having issues that seems the kind of run along with this thread. I'm currently working on a 550 LTD my issue is when I hit about 70mph it'll run good for a few minutes and then just slowly cut in and out until I back the speed back down to about 65mph I cannot get above 70 mph it doesn't just shut off or bog out it just has no more power . Anyone have an idea why ? I have to replaced the lower half of the carburetor with all its stock settings just new parts I have not replaced the needle.

There are many things that can cause this. You would be best off making sure the motor is good before digging into the carbs too much.

Check compression and valve clearances first. Read the warning in my signature before opening the valve cover.
And if you don't have a factory manual, download one (or all of them actually) from the links in my signature.

The cam chain tensioning system relying on the cover is odd. Is it covered in the manual? I had a GPz550 (1981 or 1982) back iin the early 80s and don't remember this at all although I can't recall ever checking valve clearances. I would NEVER buy a bike or own a vintage bike without checking compression first. No compression means ver hard starting really bad performance. Everything gets blamed on carburetors but spark and compression (such as no valve clearance) has more victims, I am sure. I have a valve clearance write up on my website that might be helpful...
wgcarbs.com/index.php/using-joomla/exten...categories/88-valves

It is intended for shim over bucket Kaw 4s but may be helpful understanding things. Also, if your cam cover is to be removed, have a new valve cover gasket on hard first. If compression is within spec, chances are valve clearances are as well but previous owners claims to have adjusted valve clearances are generally wishful thinking on the new owner's part.

Most, if not all, of the Hyvo camchain Kz motors use a rubbing block in the valve cover. Later Zx and Zr motors probably have them too. It's pretty common.

The warning applies to all of them with automatic chain tensioners. The manuals do mention it in notes here and there, but they really should make it more of a warning. The Clymer manuals mention it as well. Most mechanics from the era did not even know about it if they didn't read the manual closely. I guess they never wondered why the valve cover didn't just sit flat on the head until they bolt them down.

Great info! One of my current daily riders is a GS1000G which I prefer to my two (one sold and one in project stage) KZ1000E models. The GS motor uses an automatic cam chain tensioner and is similar to the one you described; A spring loaded wedge type thing presses on the plunger which is sort of a wedge at the rear. There is nothing in the valve cover to provide any tensioning help. I just can't remember on the 81 GPz550 I owned as I owned i in the early 80s and just remember the fire cracker red paint.

By TimKZ550: I'm having issues that seems the kind of run along with this thread. I'm currently working on a 550 LTD my issue is when I hit about 70mph it'll run good for a few minutes and then just slowly cut in and out until I back the speed back down to about 65mph I cannot get above 70 mph it doesn't just shut off or bog out it just has no more power . Anyone have an idea why ? I have to replaced the lower half of the carburetor with all its stock settings just new parts I have not replaced the needle.

Does the motorcycle have the stock airbox w good air filter & stock exhaust system?

Troubleshooting isn't my forte, but I would check the battery & ignition system. The motorcycle needs a good, fully charged battery to run right, especially at high speeds. Even if it's a new battery, you should charge it with a good motorcycle smart charger, then test it with a digital multimeter & do a load test. If it's a wet cell battery, make sure the electrolyte levels are correct & add distilled water if necessary.

If the coils are bad, they can overheat & cause running problems, again especially at high speeds.
Be sure to clean, check & lubricate the timing advancer. separate the rotor from the advancer body to clean & lube it.
If the springs are shot or if it's rusty, I guess that could cause advance problems, and probably especially at high speeds.
I've had running issues at one time or another with all of the above except for the advancer which is like new & I service it regularly.

Well I went ahead and took my carbs apart cuz I already had them off and one thing I didn't check the first time when I rebuilt the lower half the carburetors and set everything to factory set I never took the needles out well I went ahead and took the needles out and found out that someone had tried to shim wear retainer bolts to slide they had put two washers on each bolt that bolts to it instead of shimming just the needle I haven't I have a set of identical carbs that I went ahead and check their needles and realized there were no washers on those ones so I went ahead put it back together without the washers everything has been set to factory stock and as of right now just took it for a 30 mile ride it runs like a top. I've never checked the compression or the valve clearance but I'm going to go ahead and do that just to see what I'm working with but as of right now it's running great so if it's not broke don't fix it. Thank you and I will be downloading those manuals in your signature.