Frustrated with my TK22 carbs...

.. my 2nd GPz has been rocking pod filters since I got it last year.. bike always ran great but I was never impressed with the pods, and finally sourced all the parts to go back to the factory airbox like my other GPz.

Except now the bike runs like crap.

Starts and idles fine. Out on the road, if I am light with throttle (0-1/4) throttle it seems to do fine. Anything more than that and it dies. Cant tell if its flooding or choking.. tough to say because its pretty quick.. if I ease up on throttle it will sputter and idle and work again.

I understand the chart from loudvhx's site


The few times it has completely died, i cant seem to easily start it unless I am giving full throttle and then its very hard starting and sputtering until it gets going again and im light on the throttle


All I did was put airbox and new boots on. The carbs had the original plug over the airscrews and I removed them this week.

With bike running, pods, and a kerker 4-1 exhaust, these are the specs
4d93 needle, 2nd position from BOTTOM
94 main jet
32 pilot jet
After I removed the air screw plugs I noted them set at this

Right outside
3/4 out

Right in
1 1/4 out

Left in
1 1/2

Left out
1 1/2


I have made the following changes and the bike now sits....
4d93 needle, 2nd position from TOP (I tried all the way at the top, bike def seems best here but still does the same, and 3rd from the top where it seems to do it quicker)
94 main jet
32 pilot jet
All air screws 1 1/4 out


Any advice? Ive had a rough couple of days, so my patience is def not with me..

Sounds rich. Pics of the plugs?
Steve

home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/TK22mai...22jetsAndDrills.html
Steve

Just my 2 cents. If it was running fine with the pods and now you have stock air cleaner then you are going rich especially at mid throttle. My feeling is that if those are the correct stock numbers on the jets then someone drilled them bigger to accommodate the pods. I know of no way of measuring them but I'd have to say if it's rich with stock AC then the jets, for whatever reason, are too big. Probably the main (high speed) jet has been messed with.

You might also try to lower the needle a notch or two. That will help lean it a bit but probably won't fix it.

As above I suspect the jets may have been drilled for the pods. The 94 main jet sounds really small for a kerker and pods, 102.5 -105 from memory on mine.

You might find that experimenting with the needle clip and airscrew settings with a carb synch will make it run a load better on pods, if this wasn't done before.

Using an airbox I went from factory 4-2 pipes to a 4-1 Harris pipe with no jetting other than lifting the needle, that wouldn't happen with pods.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationI just ordered the color tune. Should make it a lot easier dialing in my 33's.
Steve

Carbs are something to definitely not work on while frustrated.

Assuming there was no bug created during the swap to the airbox, stock jetting should work relatively ok with just a street kerker installed. It will be slightly lean, but after a thorough warm up, it should run good, and on a hot day might even run better than stock.

The airscrew at 3/4 is puzzling, and may require investigation. It's hard to believe it left the factory that way.

As mentioned, you really need to know what you have in terms of jet sizes. If you have the drill bit kit, you can use them as go/no-go gauges to get an idea, but have a good mic handy to confirm the bit sizes.

Are your 4D93 needles actually labeled as such? If so, the needles should be good. Second clip from the top is where you want them.

Your symptom, as mentioned by others, do superficially seem to be a rich condition. If you roll the throttle really slowly, can you actually get to full throttle? If not, and depending on the timing of the throttle-to-stall, maybe it is a fuel flow issue.

I bring that up because anytime the carbs come off and on, maybe there is a kink in the fuel line, or maybe the vacuum hose to the petcock is leaking and not letting enough fuel flow.

The fact that the right carb had such a drastically different airscrew setting can be related to the petcock vac line. If the vac line was leaking air, someone may have tried to compensate by making the airscrew much richer. When the vac system is working properly, the airscrew should be at about the same setting as the other carbs.

How about the other vac caps? All intact?

Are the fuel vents up near the airbox top and free of obstruction? There are two cutouts in the airbox top holder that the vent hoses rest in. Do you have that plastic part? It bolts on to the frame just behind the tank peg, and presses down on the airbox top. Sometimes that will get tossed during a pod conversion.

Also, just because they are in the general area of the carbs, could anything have happened with the coils or wiring?

loudhvx wrote: Carbs are something to definitely not work on while frustrated.

Assuming there was no bug created during the swap to the airbox, stock jetting should work relatively ok with just a street kerker installed. It will be slightly lean, but after a thorough warm up, it should run good, and on a hot day might even run better than stock.

The airscrew at 3/4 is puzzling, and may require investigation. It's hard to believe it left the factory that way.

As mentioned, you really need to know what you have in terms of jet sizes. If you have the drill bit kit, you can use them as go/no-go gauges to get an idea, but have a good mic handy to confirm the bit sizes.

Are your 4D93 needles actually labeled as such? If so, the needles should be good. Second clip from the top is where you want them.

Your symptom, as mentioned by others, do superficially seem to be a rich condition. If you roll the throttle really slowly, can you actually get to full throttle? If not, and depending on the timing of the throttle-to-stall, maybe it is a fuel flow issue.

I bring that up because anytime the carbs come off and on, maybe there is a kink in the fuel line, or maybe the vacuum hose to the petcock is leaking and not letting enough fuel flow.

The fact that the right carb had such a drastically different airscrew setting can be related to the petcock vac line. If the vac line was leaking air, someone may have tried to compensate by making the airscrew much richer. When the vac system is working properly, the airscrew should be at about the same setting as the other carbs.

How about the other vac caps? All intact?

Are the fuel vents up near the airbox top and free of obstruction? There are two cutouts in the airbox top holder that the vent hoses rest in. Do you have that plastic part? It bolts on to the frame just behind the tank peg, and presses down on the airbox top. Sometimes that will get tossed during a pod conversion.

Also, just because they are in the general area of the carbs, could anything have happened with the coils or wiring?

Thanks everyone.. I am going to suspect the main jets.. ill get out the drill bits and measure, and then swap over the mains from my other GPz just to see.

Yes, the needles and jets are all labeled.

I guess I was confused because my other GPz runs the 92 replacement jets (I never drilled them out which I probably should have), 32 pilot and 4d93 needles.. And I never had a problem dialing them in..

I think I have some spare jets too kicking about but let me check these first.

I was having one of those days where I really needed to work on my bike or car to clear my mind and it ended up making me more agitated. So I had to stop before I got too frustrated and broke something

Good move.
Steve

Welp I swapped over my 94's from my running GPz, and moved the needle clips to the 2nd from the top.. No dice.

The bike still dies beyond 1/2 throttle.. and when its choking/bogging if I let go of the throttle it will rumble back to life at idle and im ok at less than a 1/4 throttle.

Bout to go mental. Never had this much problem before. Always praised the TK-22's with how reliable they are.

Heres a pic of my jets.. I didnt have the drill bits handy, but the 94's I took out do LOOK bigger but looks can be deceiving.

My running GPz is off the road right now as Im painting the frame so I probably shouldnt have started this endeavor until I had two working bikes. LOL.

Driggs wrote: . . . still dies beyond 1/2 throttle.. and when its choking/bogging if I let go of the throttle it will rumble back to life at idle and im ok at less than a 1/4 throttle. . . .

Am thinking that main jet size is not the reason for dying beyond 1/2 throttle.

If not already done, would assure that float bowl fuel levels are correct as determined by the clear tube test; assure that main jets are not loose; and assure that the advancer is not stuck in the idle position.

Suspicion is toward the jet needle (possibly clip position) or needle jet (possibly worn).

When it dies beyond 1/2 throttle, have the spark plugs been immediately removed and inspected?
If so, what are the plug readings?

Is it possible that the airbox intake is obstructed with something such as a shop rag, gloves, etc.?

Fresh and clean air filter?

Good Fortune!