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1992 KZ1000P Fuel Tap (petcock) Woes...
- hardworkinpd
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Diaphram *looks* good, block looks good, o-ring and everything else*look* good and there doesn't *seem* to be any vacuum leaks. Oh and I did stretch the shix out of the spring to put more preasure behind the o-ring plunger.
Any of you guys ever have this problem? If so what was your fix?
Also I have never heard Anyone talk about the very small phaneloc stopper in the vacuum intake nozzle of the fuel tap. Can't blow *in* but Can suck *out*.
Anyway, any and all ideas/solutions are Greatly Appreciated!
Adios, Kip
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- TexasKZ
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1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
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- hardworkinpd
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Anybody else have Any ideas?
Adios, Kip
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- jackleberry
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Anyway, all of the times I've rebuilt these petcocks the old parts *looked* fine. I think you must have a hole in your diaphragm to have gas coming out of that notch though. It's a very flimsy/finicky mechanism. New rubber seems to be the only cure. You can get the rebuild kits for as low as $13 these days. Oh, and remember that the notched side of the plate is supposed to face the outside of the bike.
The thing I hate most about the design is that gas ends up in the crankcase. How stupid is that? Maybe in Japan they always park motorcycles facing uphill...
Probably time to pull your carbs and polish those float valve seats, maybe replace the needles, and set the float heights. It is possible to find Viton tipped replacement needles that might seal better (haven't tried this myself yet, but may the next time I need new needles)
Some people are convinced that adding a restriction to the vacuum line can extend the life of the petcock diaphragm. I'm more inclined to believe it is the ethanol in the fuel these days that destroys them.
1997 KZ1000P (P16)
2001 KZ1000P (P20)
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- TexasKZ
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1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
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- hardworkinpd
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Gosh I don't want to have to take the carbs off Again. that would be a third time in two weeks and they are a REAL pain to take off and put on. But what you are telling me about the floats and shut off needle makes sense. Damn I knew I should off checked float height the first TWO times I had them apart!
I'll rebuild the fuel tap Again with New parts and see where that gets me and then maybe (most probably) remove carbs AGAIN.
I think I'm going to take a break though getting a little behind on other things.
Oh yeah and the *notch* on the diaphram block is on the o-ring plunger side, at least that's my take on what the manual says. And thinking a little more does it matter what position the *notch* is at, left, right, up or down?
Thank A Lot, Kip
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- hardworkinpd
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Adios, Kip
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- ThatGPzGuy
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jackleberry wrote: Anyway, all of the times I've rebuilt these petcocks the old parts *looked* fine. I think you must have a hole in your diaphragm to have gas coming out of that notch though. It's a very flimsy/finicky mechanism. New rubber seems to be the only cure.
Just went thru this on my KZP. Bought a brand new diaphragm from Partzilla ($10) and it was pouring fuel out of that notch. Took it apart and put it back together again few times with the same result. Took a closer look at the diaphragm and it had a very small tear in it very close to the metal. This was a brand new part, mind you. Replaced it with another and no more leaks. As the poster above says the only way for them to leak like that is with a broken diaphragm.
Jim
North GA
2016 Yamaha FJR1300ES
1982 GPz750 R1
1974 Kawasaki H1
1976 Kawasaki KZ400
1979 Yamaha XS650 cafe'
2001 KZ1000P
2001 Yamaha YZ426
1981 Honda XR200 stroked in an '89 CR125 chassis
1965 Mustang
1967 Triumph GT6
1976 Bronco
"If you didn't build it, it's not really yours"
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- LineArtist
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The other thing I have seen people do is install the diaphragm kits incorrectly, the FSM sometimes isn't clear enough to spell out how all the layers and tabs and holes align. take it apart and really examine what's going on in there.
For any nipple type leaks, a liquid weld product will seal it. I've also used tread to make a very tiny o-ring type gasket (successful but i don't recommend the method).
old one is torn and looking beat up
Attachment IMG_3025-2.jpg not found
the gang of parts
Attachment IMG_3026.jpg not found
o-ring on nipple (broken in photo)
Attachment IMG_3065.jpg not found
alignment of critical air hole and tabs
Attachment IMG_3066.jpg not found
'79 KZ650B3 (stock)
'79 KZ650B3 (parts bike)
'06 HD 883R
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- hardworkinpd
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When you reassembled did you have the *Notch* pointed on the vacuum inlet nozzle /nipple side?
The reason I ask is the main fuel tap/petcock body does have different patterns on the vacuum side.
And yeah tackle One problem at a time but carburetor removal is haunting me!
Adios, Kip
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- hardworkinpd
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Probably time to pull your carbs and polish those float valve seats, maybe replace the needles, and set the float heights. It is possible to find Viton tipped replacement needles that might seal better (haven't tried this myself yet, but may the next time I need new needles)
How would you recommend "polish"ing the float valve seats?
Also you wouldn't happen to have a source where to buy Viton tipped needles that would fit my bike would you?
TIA, Kip
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- jackleberry
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hardworkinpd wrote:
Probably time to pull your carbs and polish those float valve seats, maybe replace the needles, and set the float heights. It is possible to find Viton tipped replacement needles that might seal better (haven't tried this myself yet, but may the next time I need new needles)
How would you recommend "polish"ing the float valve seats?
Also you wouldn't happen to have a source where to buy Viton tipped needles that would fit my bike would you?
The
TIA, Kip
I use some Mother's polish on a q tip. Put the seat in a cordless drill and work it over with the qtip until the inside has a mirror finish. Clean thoroughly before reinstalling. Use a new o-ring and grease it a bit so it doesn't get cut when you press the seat back into the carb body.
Here's a link to the needles:
www.mikesxs.net/product/48-5014.html
1997 KZ1000P (P16)
2001 KZ1000P (P20)
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