1992 KZ1000P Fuel Tap (petcock) Woes...

That needle is a proven *fit*?

Thanks, Kip

hardworkinpd wrote: That needle is a proven *fit*?

Thanks, Kip

Haven't tried it myself, but it's for the same model of carbs and it certainly looks the same (except that the stock needles on the KZP don't have a clip)

jackleberry wrote: Here's a link to the needles:

www.mikesxs.net/product/48-5014.html

Oh Lordy. Do not buy anything rubber from MikesXS. Ask anyone who owns a XS650.
Z1 sells those o-ring too. So does Partzilla for a little less.

E-mailed Mike, he told me to check with Sudco. I got an e-mail out to them, I'll see what they say.
The correspondence is below:


"Mikes XS
Today at 12:08 PM

To K L

Sorry, we do not have a cross over number for the Kawasaki KZ1000.
Try "Sudco International".


From: K L
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 1:03 PM
To: Mikes XS
Subject: Float Needle for Mikuni Carb?

Hello!
I have a 1992 Kawasaki KZ1000p with the original Mikuni carburators. The spring loaded Float Needles are metal tipped.
Would you all happen to sale a proven direct replacement Viton tipped Float Needle that would work in place of the metal tipped ones?


Thank You Very Much For You Time, Kip"

Why Viton tipped? Mine are original and they are metal. I have cleaned them 1 time in the 38+ years, 59K+ miles i have owned my bike. They do not leak at all.

If you haven't yet cleaned them I suggest you do so; don't use anything abrasive. Even if you just use a Q-tip and carb cleaner you should be able to get them squeaky clean. You do not need to remove the carbs from the bike; you can just drop the carb bowls and work from there. Ed

Yeah I just cleaned mine with a Q-tip and break cleaner and put new o-rings. I cleaned the carbs and put all new o-rings in all 4 carbs. BUT I didn't check the float levels.
But one thing at a time, let me get the fuel tap rebuild kit in and see if the oil level Still increases in the little window. Should be another 3 or 4 days before I get the rebuild kit and installed. In the mean time I'm going to clean up the dog poops and cut the grass then drink a lot of Ice Cold cheap beer.
Still got to get a definite answer in which direction the diaphram block notch is positioned though...

Adios, Kip

650ed wrote: Why Viton tipped? Mine are original and they are metal. I have cleaned them 1 time in the 38+ years, 59K+ miles i have owned my bike. They do not leak at all.

If you haven't yet cleaned them I suggest you do so; don't use anything abrasive. Even if you just use a Q-tip and carb cleaner you should be able to get them squeaky clean. You do not need to remove the carbs from the bike; you can just drop the carb bowls and work from there. Ed

Not sure about the 650, but on the KZP the consequences of leaking are nasty (gas in the crankcase and airbox) as there are no overflow ports/hoses on the carbs. Also, as the topic hints at, the petcocks tend to fail often. If you can leave your tank on prime (or hard on) and never have a drop of gas overflow your carbs, then lucky you. That isn't such an easy result to achieve on a KZP.

If the petcock is working well, then the fact that the floats leak a little may never be noticed unless one accidentally leaves the petpcok on PRIME over night.

hardworkinpd wrote: Yeah I just cleaned mine with a Q-tip and break cleaner and put new o-rings. I cleaned the carbs and put all new o-rings in all 4 carbs. BUT I didn't check the float levels.
But one thing at a time, let me get the fuel tap rebuild kit in and see if the oil level Still increases in the little window. Should be another 3 or 4 days before I get the rebuild kit and installed. In the mean time I'm going to clean up the dog poops and cut the grass then drink a lot of Ice Cold cheap beer.
Still got to get a definite answer in which direction the diaphram block notch is positioned though...

Adios, Kip

You don't have to risk contaminating your oil to test it. You can fully test the petcock and tank venting system without having the tank connected to the carbs.

All you need is some clear fuel line, a bicycle hand pump, and a syringe:

Connect the fuel line to the fuel outlet on one end and a bucket on the other. Connect the syringe to the vacuum port and suck. Gas should come out fuel line and not into the syringe. Now disconnect the syringe, gas should stop flowing. Now hold the fuel line above the tank and connect the bicycle pump to it. Pump it up a bit. You should hear air bubbling through the gas and air/fumes venting through the valve in the gas cap. If not, you need to take that apart and clean it. Now stop pumping. Fuel should *not* flow into the fuel line. If it does, your petcock spring is weak, the plunger o-ring is too big, or something else is wrong with the petcock.

Thanks Jack! Yeah I did disassemble the gas cap and cleaned it. Haven't tested it like you described. I think once I finish cleaning up the yard and recovering from my cheap Ice Cold beer intake and rebuilding the fuel tap on 1st startup I'll leave the gas cap popped open and use that as a partial test on any possible venting/back pressure problem and do further testing if need be.

Gosh and another thing I want to apologize to Anybody who might get mislead by not staying Exactly on topic from what the "Topic" title states. But as for My particular delema All replies have been Very helpful!

Adios, Kip

"Can you tell me more about this phenolic part? Got any pictures?"

These are the first pictures I've download here so bear with me also using a new computer that I have no idea how to use. If you have any questions from here I'll try and answer them.
Like I said in the past I have Never Seen or Heard Anyone ever mention the round piece in the middle of the first picture pointed at by the dental tool.

"Can you tell me more about this phenolic part? Got any pictures?"



Adios, Kip

Ok here we go again.
In which direction should the *notch* in the diaphram block be facing?

The *notch is on the other side but corresponds to the little round hole the dental tool is pointing to.Towards the Vacuum Inlet side?


Or towards the Front of the bike?


See there are different patterns on the fuel tap itself to where the diaphram mats up against. Do these patterns make any difference in the performance of the *notch*?