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1992 KZ1000P Fuel Tap (petcock) Woes...
- hardworkinpd
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Thanks, Kip
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- jackleberry
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hardworkinpd wrote: That needle is a proven *fit*?
Thanks, Kip
Haven't tried it myself, but it's for the same model of carbs and it certainly looks the same (except that the stock needles on the KZP don't have a clip)
1997 KZ1000P (P16)
2001 KZ1000P (P20)
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- ThatGPzGuy
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- More Sparky than Speed Racer
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Oh Lordy. Do not buy anything rubber from MikesXS. Ask anyone who owns a XS650.jackleberry wrote: Here's a link to the needles:
www.mikesxs.net/product/48-5014.html
Z1 sells those o-ring too. So does Partzilla for a little less.
Jim
North GA
2016 Yamaha FJR1300ES
1982 GPz750 R1
1974 Kawasaki H1
1976 Kawasaki KZ400
1979 Yamaha XS650 cafe'
2001 KZ1000P
2001 Yamaha YZ426
1981 Honda XR200 stroked in an '89 CR125 chassis
1965 Mustang
1967 Triumph GT6
1976 Bronco
"If you didn't build it, it's not really yours"
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- hardworkinpd
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The correspondence is below:
"Mikes XS
Today at 12:08 PM
To K L
Sorry, we do not have a cross over number for the Kawasaki KZ1000.
Try "Sudco International".
From: K L
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 1:03 PM
To: Mikes XS
Subject: Float Needle for Mikuni Carb?
Hello!
I have a 1992 Kawasaki KZ1000p with the original Mikuni carburators. The spring loaded Float Needles are metal tipped.
Would you all happen to sale a proven direct replacement Viton tipped Float Needle that would work in place of the metal tipped ones?
Thank You Very Much For You Time, Kip"
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- 650ed
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If you haven't yet cleaned them I suggest you do so; don't use anything abrasive. Even if you just use a Q-tip and carb cleaner you should be able to get them squeaky clean. You do not need to remove the carbs from the bike; you can just drop the carb bowls and work from there. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- hardworkinpd
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But one thing at a time, let me get the fuel tap rebuild kit in and see if the oil level Still increases in the little window. Should be another 3 or 4 days before I get the rebuild kit and installed. In the mean time I'm going to clean up the dog poops and cut the grass then drink a lot of Ice Cold cheap beer.
Still got to get a definite answer in which direction the diaphram block notch is positioned though...
Adios, Kip
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- jackleberry
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650ed wrote: Why Viton tipped? Mine are original and they are metal. I have cleaned them 1 time in the 38+ years, 59K+ miles i have owned my bike. They do not leak at all.
If you haven't yet cleaned them I suggest you do so; don't use anything abrasive. Even if you just use a Q-tip and carb cleaner you should be able to get them squeaky clean. You do not need to remove the carbs from the bike; you can just drop the carb bowls and work from there. Ed
Not sure about the 650, but on the KZP the consequences of leaking are nasty (gas in the crankcase and airbox) as there are no overflow ports/hoses on the carbs. Also, as the topic hints at, the petcocks tend to fail often. If you can leave your tank on prime (or hard on) and never have a drop of gas overflow your carbs, then lucky you. That isn't such an easy result to achieve on a KZP.
If the petcock is working well, then the fact that the floats leak a little may never be noticed unless one accidentally leaves the petpcok on PRIME over night.
1997 KZ1000P (P16)
2001 KZ1000P (P20)
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- jackleberry
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hardworkinpd wrote: Yeah I just cleaned mine with a Q-tip and break cleaner and put new o-rings. I cleaned the carbs and put all new o-rings in all 4 carbs. BUT I didn't check the float levels.
But one thing at a time, let me get the fuel tap rebuild kit in and see if the oil level Still increases in the little window. Should be another 3 or 4 days before I get the rebuild kit and installed. In the mean time I'm going to clean up the dog poops and cut the grass then drink a lot of Ice Cold cheap beer.
Still got to get a definite answer in which direction the diaphram block notch is positioned though...
Adios, Kip
You don't have to risk contaminating your oil to test it. You can fully test the petcock and tank venting system without having the tank connected to the carbs.
All you need is some clear fuel line, a bicycle hand pump, and a syringe:
Connect the fuel line to the fuel outlet on one end and a bucket on the other. Connect the syringe to the vacuum port and suck. Gas should come out fuel line and not into the syringe. Now disconnect the syringe, gas should stop flowing. Now hold the fuel line above the tank and connect the bicycle pump to it. Pump it up a bit. You should hear air bubbling through the gas and air/fumes venting through the valve in the gas cap. If not, you need to take that apart and clean it. Now stop pumping. Fuel should *not* flow into the fuel line. If it does, your petcock spring is weak, the plunger o-ring is too big, or something else is wrong with the petcock.
1997 KZ1000P (P16)
2001 KZ1000P (P20)
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- hardworkinpd
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Gosh and another thing I want to apologize to Anybody who might get mislead by not staying Exactly on topic from what the "Topic" title states. But as for My particular delema All replies have been Very helpful!
Adios, Kip
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- hardworkinpd
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- hardworkinpd
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Like I said in the past I have Never Seen or Heard Anyone ever mention the round piece in the middle of the first picture pointed at by the dental tool.
"Can you tell me more about this phenolic part? Got any pictures?"
Attachment IMG_3142.jpg not found
Adios, Kip
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- hardworkinpd
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In which direction should the *notch* in the diaphram block be facing?
The *notch is on the other side but corresponds to the little round hole the dental tool is pointing to.Towards the Vacuum Inlet side?
Attachment IMG_3148.jpg not found
Or towards the Front of the bike?
Attachment IMG_3149.jpg not found
See there are different patterns on the fuel tap itself to where the diaphram mats up against. Do these patterns make any difference in the performance of the *notch*?
Attachment IMG_3151.jpg not found
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