Dumb Question?

650ed wrote: When starting the bike don't touch the throttle until it fires up. Ed

Will try that momentarily...the engine is not stock, if that would make any difference. I'll add to this when I get back in about an hour...

Daveo, those plugs look a bit white to me, is that running a bit lean?

On a CV carb opening the throttle bypasses the enrichment circuit - the 'choke' . Saying that my 750 seems to start better on a bit of throttle, although the carbs have been messed with quite a lot with an air corrector kit and upjetted plus needle change for pod filters.

That bike looks really clean, nice.

I'd go one step up on the pilots. Blue is lean.
Steve

swest wrote: I'd go one step up on the pilots. Blue is lean.
Steve

Note the header tube color near the head...same at the collector. :evil: They were golden when I bolted them to the bathtub head (GPZ cams), about 2k miles ago. This head setup squeezes way more juice than the original J-head it replaced, and really makes the header sing. :kiss:
After a cool, late night cruise, I took these pics when I got back...
The carbs have 130 main, and 40 pilot jets. The bone-stock spec is 120 main, and 37.5 pilots.

Tyrell Corp wrote: Daveo, those plugs look a bit white to me, is that running a bit lean?

On a CV carb opening the throttle bypasses the enrichment circuit - the 'choke' . Saying that my 750 seems to start better on a bit of throttle, although the carbs have been messed with quite a lot with an air corrector kit and upjetted plus needle change for pod filters.

That bike looks really clean, nice.

See the last plug pic taken this evening...color looks better to me, and I'm not getting much popping on deceleration, as when the other pic was taken in the Spring.
Thanks for the compliment. She gets me there.

swest wrote: I'd go one step up on the pilots. Blue is lean.
Steve

I had 42.5 pilots in there back in the Spring. It was suggested to step back down one size, due to excessive carbon buildup at the end of the threads. After experimenting with different main jets, I settled up to 130 which eliminated high-end pops, and accelerates me to infinity without hesitation. :woohoo:

K'zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz zzzzzzzzz

When starting the bike don't touch the throttle until it fires up.

When the engine is warm or if the ambient temperature is 95^o F or above:
the 1981 KZ650-CSR owner's manual says to open the throttle part way instead of using the choke (VM24 carburetors);
the om for the 83 650-CSR says the same thing (BS32 carbs), as does the om for the 78 650-B2A (VM24s).

Engine warm or cold, I set the petcock to PRI for a minute or two to make sure the carburetors are primed before attempting to start the bike; and when it's hot outside or the engine is warm, I crack the throttle open a little.

Martin_csr Just checked the KZ1100 owner's manual to compare, and it suggests when the engine is already warm or on hot days (higher than 86 degrees F), to open the throttle part way instead of using the choke.
Will give it a whirl.

zzzzzzzzzzz'K...an other potential carburetor issue needing wise council...

When adjusting the BS34 pilot screws for best idle, I find that 1, 2, and 4 end up at around 2 turns out, but number 3 is consistently .75 to 1.25 turns out. If turned out further, a noticeable stumble occurs on just that one cylinder, where with the others it is quite subtle.
If the tip-position of the adjusting screw controls the amount of fuel passing through the orifice below it, then perhaps there is an air-flow blockage in that circuit somewhere, that has me stumped. I've tried blowing carb cleaner through the passages, followed with blasts of compressed air through the pilot screw hole. The cleaner fluid and air blow through and out, but the process has thus far had no effect on the screw position. :S

I've seen the tips broken from being tightened too much. Look at it. The PO of my 33's boogered them up, soldered the hole going through them so now I have to find new ones. That's a problem being they are discontinued.
Steve

swest wrote: I've seen the tips broken from being tightened too much. Look at it. The PO of my 33's boogered them up, soldered the hole going through them so now I have to find new ones. That's a problem being they are discontinued.
Steve

Tips are perfect, and Genuine Kawasaki to boot...when I went through the carbs last, I put in brand new pilot screws along with a set of of Kaw. float valves I bought off ebay from a retired Kawasaki Police bike mechanic in California. If not for ebay, this bike would have been lost to neglect many years ago.
I was just looking at a beautiful set of 33 Smoothies, but reluctant to move on them on account of part scarcity, and difficult tuning characteristics for street use...noted by folks on the forum.
If I do change them out, I'll probably end up with a set of Mikuni RS 34 or 36 Flatslides. I hear good things about that model, and the ease of tuning, by comparison.

Got a link to the 33's?
Steve