Can't sync utter failure

That's dedication right there. I couldn't bring myself to drill into a $900 set of carbs! I'm thinking of just inserting a hollow needle lke you would use to inflate a basketball into the holders and fitting the vacuum lines to them somehow. They SHOULD seal back up once removed but worst case i can put a dab of silicon on it or even buy a new set and permanently modify the old ones with fittings.

swest wrote:

loudhvx wrote: This is a 550. All carbs are same. There is no lead carb.

The 84 550 LTD shaft had a lead carb. They are TK's. I was sweating bullets thinking the diaphragms were shot. Turned out fine and it ran like a scalded cat. :woohoo:
Steve

We are talking about an 82 Ltd. On the 82 Ltd, all of the carbs (which are TK22's) are the same, regarding sync. There is no master or lead carb.

rctreadaway wrote: That's dedication right there. I couldn't bring myself to drill into a $900 set of carbs! I'm thinking of just inserting a hollow needle lke you would use to inflate a basketball into the holders and fitting the vacuum lines to them somehow. They SHOULD seal back up once removed but worst case i can put a dab of silicon on it or even buy a new set and permanently modify the old ones with fittings.

I don't think he was talking about drilling. He was talking about using drill bits as a standard thickness gauge, to set the slide position.

That's right. Setting the slides at the bottom with a drill bit as a gauge is a good starting point. That's what's suggested in any manual bike, car or truck carbs. Setting them by eye at WOT won't account minor changes in linkage. Using a vacuum gauge just sets each carb to the demands of each cylinder.
Steve

I'd like to source 4 of these. No numbers.
Steve

Well plans changed. No vac syn tonight. But I did check fuel level for shits and grins. Found 2 and 3 low. Way low. I pulled them, adjusted #2 and looked at #3. The tang is almost touching the float body. No more adjustment left! Must have a little longer aftermarket needle in that one... I got it to come in spec, but BARELY. Looks like I'm gonna have to get me some new needles in the near future.

Wrong direction. Who knows what the PO or shop did to them. The tang should be level. If it's not, it will cock the needle sideways and cause a leak. Bend the float arms just enough to get them close, THEN slightly band the tang for your fine adjustment. It's a good idea to put the floats in water to see if one is heavier than the others. It's possible one could have cracked and become saturated with gas. I have brass floats and they're notorious for cracking and filling with gas.
Steve

loudhvx wrote:

rctreadaway wrote: That's dedication right there. I couldn't bring myself to drill into a $900 set of carbs! I'm thinking of just inserting a hollow needle lke you would use to inflate a basketball into the holders and fitting the vacuum lines to them somehow. They SHOULD seal back up once removed but worst case i can put a dab of silicon on it or even buy a new set and permanently modify the old ones with fittings.

I don't think he was talking about drilling. He was talking about using drill bits as a standard thickness gauge, to set the slide position.

No I understand what he meant. He said his carbs, nor the holders had vacuum ports so the previous owner did what was shown in the picture. From what I gathered, he put barb fittings onto the carbs which would require drilling holes into them. Am I wrong?

rctreadaway wrote:

loudhvx wrote:

rctreadaway wrote: That's dedication right there. I couldn't bring myself to drill into a $900 set of carbs! I'm thinking of just inserting a hollow needle lke you would use to inflate a basketball into the holders and fitting the vacuum lines to them somehow. They SHOULD seal back up once removed but worst case i can put a dab of silicon on it or even buy a new set and permanently modify the old ones with fittings.

I don't think he was talking about drilling. He was talking about using drill bits as a standard thickness gauge, to set the slide position.

No I understand what he meant. He said his carbs, nor the holders had vacuum ports so the previous owner did what was shown in the picture. From what I gathered, he put barb fittings onto the carbs which would require drilling holes into them. Am I wrong?

I see what you are saying. The photo doesn't really show what was done... assuming it's under that black cap.

As rctreadaway said, a bench sync can be eyeballed by looking at the width of the sliver of light when looking through the carb. Obviously this is not done at WOT. It's done when the slides are almost closed. That is closed more than a typical idle setting.

Yeah, he drilled them in the wrong places. If they were in 5:00 position, they would look better and the ones on the center two would be easier to get to. His brother Donny Miller was known as the master tuner in our area. He was a moron. He called himself Shark. I always called him Snake. We didn't get along. :whistle:
Steve

I guess I misspoke. I did bench them by holding a light on the backside and eyeballing it. I also did check the wot position as well.

And Steve, the arms are not bent on the float and the float is not taking fuel on. If it was, it'd sink, not shutting the fuel off. My issue was the fuel level was too low when I measure it with the clear tube method. I'm not sure if maybe my needle is screwed up or the seat isn't the correct one...