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Bike won't start after carb cleaning
- KZJordan
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Now that I've put them back on the bike won't start. It tries, but it won't. Since this is my first bike I really have no idea what to do from here. The electric start just barely turns over the motor so I suspect maybe the battery isn't good? I think that's just from trying it so many times though. It did turn over just fine the first few tries. It has kick start so I've been trying that but it doesn't seem to work either. It also popped really loudly one time when attempting to start it. I'm pretty sure I put the carbs back on correct. At least it looks that way according to my service manual.
Also, this bike has never run without the choke on. What could that be indicative of? Could this be related to my problem? It seemed to run perfectly when the guy I bought it from started it and rode it.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- KZJordan
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- GPzEric
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Were the carb boots and head mounts as hard as glass, or were they pretty flexible?
I have pulled carbs off, and in wiggling, pulling back on carbs, etc, I 'egg' shape them a little, and they try to suck air instead of air/fuel mixture.
I'd check that first, then if you changed the float settings, I'd re-check them.
Good luck, you're in the right place for advice.
My wife asked me if I still loved her - I said "Honey, I love you more than new carburetor boots ! "
1982 KZ1100B2 (GPz)
1982 KZ750R1 (GPz)
(2) 1981 KZ550D1 (GPz) 1 mint, 1 under construction
1983 GS1100E
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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KZJordan wrote: Will do. As far as checking my plugs goes, what should I be looking for? I have a plug diagram showing what plugs look like when fuel mixture is lean/rich/etc. Am I looking to see if they're lean?
Your checking if they're wet, sooty or dry (no gas). Lay the plug on the head touching a bolt. Blue spark? (good) Yellow spark? (bad). Like the other poster said, you might have shut off the gas by adjusting the floats too much.
One thing at a time, if OK, move on.
Steve
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- KZJordan
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GPzEric wrote: Are you still running the airbox, or pod filters?
Were the carb boots and head mounts as hard as glass, or were they pretty flexible?
I have pulled carbs off, and in wiggling, pulling back on carbs, etc, I 'egg' shape them a little, and they try to suck air instead of air/fuel mixture.
I'd check that first, then if you changed the float settings, I'd re-check them.
Good luck, you're in the right place for advice.
Nope, carb boots are new. Um, that is to say that carb boots are the ones between the airbox and carbs right? Cause those are new. Nice and flexible. Not sure about the head mounts however. I'll have to check. They definitely could have gotten egg shaped.
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- GPzEric
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My wife asked me if I still loved her - I said "Honey, I love you more than new carburetor boots ! "
1982 KZ1100B2 (GPz)
1982 KZ750R1 (GPz)
(2) 1981 KZ550D1 (GPz) 1 mint, 1 under construction
1983 GS1100E
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- KZJordan
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The battery charge however seemed to do the trick. It tried a lot harder to start and actually did start one time but REALLY didn't want to run. It seemed to be trying really hard to stay on. I think I'm going to pull the carbs back off tomorrow and make sure they're all dialed in correctly. I know that when I put them in the throttle valve clearance was really small, and I've heard they should be adjusted by putting a quarter inch drill bit in and adjusting it so that the bit falls out? My service manual says to use a .5-1mm wire though instead of a drill bit. That's a pretty big difference so I'm not sure what that clearance should look like.
Also, the only way the bike seems to reliably start is with throttle fully open. As I understand doing this is for flooded carbs correct? Would this indicate the float settings are incorrect?
Thanks again for all your help guys.
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- !Seymore
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- Ride on...
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C.
83' KZ750-F1 LTD [clymers] (Kay)
82' KZ1100-D1 Specter (another project)
78' KZ650-B2a (J&H, A Project)
91' KZ1000-P (P = parts)
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- kaw-a-holic
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When you set the float levels you are wasting your time of don't use the clear tube method. You are right about setting the gap for the slide, 1/4" is WAY to big. A guitar string or small paper clip would be much better. Once you get it running you will need to synchronize the carbs.
Jon
1977 KZ1000a1
Mesa, AZ
Phoenix Fighter Project
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- SWest
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Steve
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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