need a doctor here

thanks alot ed!! muchh much appreciated... except how you get kroil into the threads when its basically sealed off from the boots?? and turboguzz answer everything you can and anything that might help out in the future like the reccomendation of the kroil!!! id say for you Guzzi, my question to you is in neutral i hit the gas and rpms stay at 5000 rpm for a hot 5 seconds then come down to a nice idle...also at a nice idle, sometimes you hear sputtering in the engine and instantly with it the choke lever making a clicking noise and i feel it clicking. is that normal?? thanks a million guys. i will put a pic up of it. its no rust bucket and its really getting me mad for this is my first project bike and should not be this hard to just let me run it for the summer and really hit it hard over winter.

here she is guys

that seat cant be to comfy :laugh:

nitrokrumpt wrote: here she is guys

nitrokrumpt wrote: ... how you get kroil into the threads when its basically sealed off from the boots??

On mine I squirted Kroil around the heads of the screws and the joint between the carb holders and the cylinder head - and repeated this for 3 days. Kroil apparently creeped along the screws into the threaded portion because when I removed the screws they came out with no problem even though they had never been removed in nearly 30 years and they were tight. I used it on a couple other really tight fasteners, like the tach guide stopper plate screw in the cylinder head and the adjuster nuts on the rear brake rod, and they broke free with no problem. I gave them a soaking for couple days for Kroil to do its thing and was very pleased with the results. Ed

nitrokrumpt wrote: when i hit the throttle in neutral, say to 4500 rpm...rpms will stick and maybe even slightly raise rpms for a good, id say, 4-5 seconds

that sounds like a vacuum leak

kimsmith4807 wrote: No short cutting here. You have alot going on and I am in agreement with boatdrinks. A manual and a full carb clean/rebuild is in order.

I'd clean the fuel tank/petcock and install inline filters then do the carb overhaul. Stuff runs downhill so it will keep polluting the carbs forever until the top is clean.

that sounds like a vacuum leak


i think you may be right here. since i had to drill and retap for the carb boot to the head, the thread was a little higher than the original since the bolt never fully came out and to not make a huge hole, just rethreaded it just above. the boot sits great but obviously not sealing. i took starter fluid and def showed up a problem in which wd-40 didnt, causing idle to go wayyy up when it was a steady 1800 rpm. i hope a new boot will take new shape to the ever slightly off new hole

the internal metal base of boots can bend making a seal impossible, applying higher torque to the screws just makes matters worse. more than once I had to flatten the face of the boot on sand paper. when you are done obtaining perfect sealing in all boots, time to synch the carbs. till you done both checks you cant go fwd with trouble shooting your hanging idle. period. lets talk after you've done this

PS, you might solve your proud broken bolt problem by enlarging that hole in the boothe to 5/16" and using a large washer

turboguzzi wrote: the internal metal base of boots can bend making a seal impossible, applying higher torque to the screws just makes matters worse. more than once I had to flatten the face of the boot on sand paper. when you are done obtaining perfect sealing in all boots, time to synch the carbs. till you done both checks you cant go fwd with trouble shooting your hanging idle. period. lets talk after you've done this

PS, you might solve your proud broken bolt problem by enlarging that hole in the boothe to 5/16" and using a large washer

thanx a million turboguzz! ill be working on this tonight and tomorrow if i havto. just ordered a new carb boot, so little wait on that! my proud broken bilt problem huh? dude that wasted about 3 hgours of my time...not proud lol

whats up with the main nozzle? its in deep with no way to get them out on all four of the carbs. i took the "needle jet holder" out, sorry going by parts diagram, and it was pretty dirty i gotta say. so i would like to take the maine nozzles and the pilot jets as well (the tube like ones with the little holes on the side as well) and the pilot jets have this lil cover looking thing that looks really easy to break. its sorta orange flexible plastic, on the parts diagram they call it a cap polyester. are they easy to take off without busting em up, they are not availble to buy so i really dont want to hurt em. thanx a million gearheads

heres a pic. i got the tabs off

For details from the FSM, here's a link to the Keihin CV carbs from KZr's FILEBASE --
Click > www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/47...-shop-manual-via-omr

Good Fortune!