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Carbs getting gas but engine isnt?
- tv219
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Im having troubles with screws stripping so right now I can only take off the float bowls of each carb and one top. Any suggestions on not totally damanging the carbs with taking these screws out or can I clean the carbs good without taking them fully apart and leaving them bracketed together? (I would assume no....) Thanks
Bensalem, PA
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- Del_Herring
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When you start the engine, as the piston goes down, it pulls in the air creating that vacuum, so it works the same way as when it's running. Vacuum lines are for other systems, not the engine, they just take advantage of the vacuum created by the engine and carbs.
The screws aren't actually philips heads, they're JIS, so they tend to strip with a phillips head driver. Sometimes an impact driver works better, but you have to be careful not to break the carb. Or there's instructions if you run a search here on how to create your own JIS. I usually take a dremel to them to make them flatheads, and then replace them with Metric screws of the same size, but a regular or hex key head.
You definitely need to disassemble them to get into all the passages good.
1983 KZ750-N2 Spectre
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- Topper
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Do a little reading online about how carbs work. Basically yes gravity feeds fuel into the bowls. It's then pulled out through the various passages by a difference in air pressure created from air moving through the carb throat (from air filter into the engine).
Permanent and perpetual noob.
1979 KZ750 Twin
2009 Kawasaki Versys
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- Topper
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Del_Herring wrote: The screws aren't actually philips heads, they're JIS, so they tend to strip with a phillips head driver. Sometimes an impact driver works better, but you have to be careful not to break the carb.
I find that the phillips tips in my socket wrench set work pretty well. They're a little flattened already and they work pretty well on the JIS screws.
Permanent and perpetual noob.
1979 KZ750 Twin
2009 Kawasaki Versys
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- Del_Herring
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1983 KZ750-N2 Spectre
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- tv219
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To note, I sprayed carb cleaner in every hole possible in under the float bowl and the carb cleaner seemed to get out somewhere, was either leaking or blasting through one of the holes. I know this doesnt mean really anything but is there good news in the fact that I can see that its coming out somewhere?
btw, you guys rock!
Bensalem, PA
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- Topper
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To get back to your original problem, the bike will start with starter fluid but won't run, correct?
I'd still start with a carb cleaning, set your float levels and check for fat blue spark on all cylinders. Get some sort of air filter in there. Simplest is going to be a stock air box with the stock air filter. You can try pod filters but may need to rejet if you go that route. Others here know more about that than I do.
Without an air filter in there to slow the air down it's going to be way too lean to run. The paper towel trick you mention might work, I've never tried it, but you need air filters anyway.
Permanent and perpetual noob.
1979 KZ750 Twin
2009 Kawasaki Versys
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- tv219
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I am trying to find an air filter for the bike now, and plan on buying spark plugs anyway, However if you come across that post let me know.
topper
Wish I could find the post about which holes to cover and where the carb spray comes out. I tried searching for it without luck.
Ima also work on getting this friggin screws out! will update
Bensalem, PA
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- Motor Head
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- FIX UP YOUR BIKE RIGHT AND CHEAP
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Once you're back to getting the carbs apart, check all small passages for obstruction, including the small brass tube that you will see hanging down from the main carb body. this is the enrichment/ starter jet, which sounds like it could be plugged. It will supply fuel up to the choke/ enrichment circuit, so when you pull the choke, fuel should be able to go through that small hole in the end of the tube up to the carb venturi.
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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- Patton
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Scroll down to and download "The Bible."
Study the carb section, especially choke and pilot circuits.
kz.bike-night.com/
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- tv219
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Bensalem, PA
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- Motor Head
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tv219 wrote: I have not been able to get to the carbs yet but I remembered something. LAst time i took the carbs apart i noticed there were no hanger clips for the valve needles and that was all four of the carbs. Is that normal?
Do you mean for the float needle valves? The small wire clip that holds it to the float? These are in some models but not all. They won't cause a problem if not there.
Now if you are talking clips on the Needles for the Slide Valves, yes they Must have the small clip on each Needle to have it lift the needle out of the fuel jet.
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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