Carbs getting gas but engine isnt?

I decided to post my carb questions here seeing it might fit better. The carbs on the 83 kz750 are filling but the engine does act like its getting gas? I can see the fuel filter is filled with gas and when I pull one of the drain plugs on the bottom of a carb the fuel filter does empty out. WTF is going on?...

The bike starts with starter fluid so wouldnt that mean its not getting gas? Im so close to kicking it over... first project bike. Thanks for all the help.

Have you pulled the plug out of all the float bowls? You got a strong blue spark on all the spark plugs?

Starter fluid might ignite with weak spark, when gas won't.

When were the carbs last cleaned? Could be all clogged up. It's easier for the fuel to fill the bowls than for it to get sucked out of all the various passages into the airflow, those guys need to be spotless.

I pulled the plugs on each carb and gas came out. I did not yet check the spark plugs :pinch: I plan on it next I get a chance
Also, i feel like im taking the carb apart fully but I may be missing something. Where the needle valve sits, is this the primary jet? I am so confused... thanks to another members posting I attached a picture of the carburetors assembly
How would you go about pulling parts 16017 and 16030 out? I get to there and Im just baffeled...

When you are trying to start the bike are you using any type of air filter? If not then the mix will be very lean and most likely have issues starting without the aid of starter fluid.

you have to carefully remove the float but do it easily so you dont break off the tab or you will have to buy a new housing

tv219 wrote: I pulled the plugs on each carb and gas came out. I did not yet check the spark plugs :pinch: I plan on it next I get a chance
Also, i feel like im taking the carb apart fully but I may be missing something. Where the needle valve sits, is this the primary jet? I am so confused... thanks to another members posting I attached a picture of the carburetors assembly
How would you go about pulling parts 16017 and 16030 out? I get to there and Im just baffeled...

In response to the air filter no there wasn't but I through a balled up paper towl to block the air flow a little and still now luck. ( read that a guy did it before for the time being. This is my first project so I'm learning as I go and have basic skills so praying this works out!

16030 is the float vale/ needle and seat. There is a retaining screw, # 220 and the small holder # 13169. Then it has an O-Ring around it as it comes out, it will help to use a spray lube to ease it out as the O-Ring can have quite a bit of friction grip when dry.
The 16017 will remove once the slide valve and main jet are removed, #43028 and #92063. It has a light press fit, and usually takes a light push from the bottom, in towards the carb throat. You can loosen the main jet a turn, and push on it to get it moving.

This might help...I had the exact same problem even with my stock air box all hooked up. It would not start without fluid but it would keep running after. Out side of that I have had fuel leaks, back firing, bogging, and even periodic reverse flow through the carbs. To fix it; First, I made sure the fuel idle screws were 1.5 turns out, they were 2.5 turns when I checked them. Kicked it over, had a few pops like it was trying but still no start. I then adjusted my floats. Problem solved. Started right up on the first kick. (I took away electric start) I swear those floats are the cause to a lot of problem with carbs. Especially if a novice took them apart before.

I now have a rule of thumb after messing with my mess...untill the floats are perfect. Everything else you adjust seems to turn into a quick fix that causes other problems.

If you're getting fuel into all the bowls and it isn't overflowing then you don't need to worry about part 16030 (the float valve) That just controls the flow of gas into the carb bowls. Sounds like they're working.

I'd focus on the float levels (use the clear tube method mentioned in other threads in the forum) and cleaning all the passages.

Somebody had a great carb cleaning diagram on here. It included instructions for spraying carb cleaner through each passage and where it should come out, then covering certain holes with your finger and verifying the carb spray comes out another passage.

I'll see if I can find it.

I swear those floats are the cause to a lot of problem with carbs. Especially if a novice took them apart before.

Since I still consider myself a novice and tv219 probably is too, help us out here. I've used the clear tube method for setting my float levels, but is there something more to it? The spec in my manual is a range of acceptable float levels. Is it best to be high, low, smack in the middle? How accurate do we need to be and how much can float levels vary from one carb to another?

I'd be pulling the float valve seat out. two reasons, first the O-ring is probably junk and will ill effect float fuel level, and second you want to be sure the screen above is clean.

Here's the clear tube method for setting float levels courtesy of Patton. You don't need a special tool as shown in the pic. I use a clear plastic tube I got at the hardware store with a little teflon plumbers tape wrapped around the end.

Patton wrote: An illustration of the clear tube test is shown in the illustration below, with side located drains.

With version of CV carbs where outlet nipple on bottom of float bowl serves dual purposes of both overflow and drain, be sure to use the drain outlet function and not the overflow function when allowing fuel to flow into the clear tube.

[Click on image to enlarge view.]

Good Fortune!