Carb Syncing

I saw that #4 is getting hot like the other cylinders, but are you positive it's running correctly at idle? If you pull #4 pod and cover the carb throat at idle does the idle speed change, and more relevant, does the vacuum gauge change? I guess I'm thinking it may be possible that the #4 carb is not shutting all the way down at idle so there is less vacuum there than in the other carbs. I don't know what your carbs are like, but with the pod removed can you see if the slide or whatever is closing down all the way when you release the throttle? If it is, and if the valves for #4 are operating properly there must be vacuum at the carb holder (unless the piston is holed or the rings are really gone - but then that pipe wouldn't get hot). Ed

I'm new to these old bikes, but I will check it as soon as I get time. Another question, where can I order a side stand/kick stand for a KZ 900 LTD ?

According to Kawasaki.com the following bikes use the same sidestand:

KZ1000-B1 (KZ1000 LTD) (1977)
KZ1000-B2 (KZ1000 LTD) (1978)
KZ1000-B3 (KZ1000 LTD) (1979)
KZ1000-B4 (LTD) (1980)
KZ900-B1 (LTD) (1976)

You should be able to find one fairly easily on eBay. Ed

I finally got time to check on this again. When I warmed the bike and pulled the #4 filter off and covered the carb with my hand, I could feel the carb trying to suck my hand into the carb. When I took my hand off of the carb, I saw a liquid spray out the carb, which I think was fuel. Now when I ride the bike, it deos not have any pull. It feels like the brakes are dragging.

If the oil level is low can this cause the problem I am now having with the bike not making much power ?

Define low.

BIGKEVIN wrote: It feels like the brakes are dragging.

Maybe they are.

I jacked the bike up and got the front wheel off the ground. When I turn the wheel it drags. I jacked up the back of the bike and the rear wheel turns freely. I did put some brake fluid in the master cylinder last week. What is the correct way to breed the brakes ?

I took the front brake completely off the bike today to see if it was causing the dragging feeling I was getting and the bike did the same thing. When the back wheel is off the grond the bike is put into gear, the rear wheel slowly spins with the clutch still pulled in. Is this normal ? I listened to the bike when riding it and it sounds like its not breathing right, like something is stuck in the open exhaust pipe. I checked the pipe to make sure there was no rags or something in it and it is clear. Does anyone have any suggestions ? I didnt start having this problem until after cleaning the carbs and adding brake fluid to the master cylinder.

The rear wheel slowly turning with the clutch pulled in is normal; in fact, it may even turn a bit with the bike in neutral. The front wheel dragging with the brake caliper(s) removed might be the speedometer drive or the wheel bearings (assuming the tire isn't rubbing on a fender mount bolt or anything). If it was mine, I would pull the front wheel and rest it on the axle between 2 suitable objects (I use a couple ice chests - high tech), then give it a slow turn. If the bearings are good they should be dead silent and the wheel should keep turning for a long while and just very gradually slow to a stop. This is also a good time to check the balance of the tire, if it always comes to rest at the same spot, the bottom is the heavy side. If the bearings turn out to be fine you may want to remount the wheel on the bike temporarily without the speedo drive and see if it still drags. If it doesn't drag when the speedo drive is removed check the speedo drive carefully and lube it if it appears nothing is bad. Ed

OK, If I get time I will try this tomorrow. I am not sure if it is the wheels are not. I didnt start having this problem until after cleaning the carbs and then adding brake fluid to the master cylinder. Trying to figure out what is causing the problem.