Mikunis won't idle down

like I said , it is NOT rich enough to produce smoke yet

When it gets hot, and starts to act up, it sounds like the Idle is a tad rich. Maybe just turn the mix screws in a small amount, it will have to be a compromise between cold and hot.

Godfrey wrote: ok this is pretty much what I've done: started with the 17 pilot jets, it would idle till it got really hot like after a highway run and then wouldn't idle very long on its own and shut down. i then put 15s in even 1/2 turn open these were too lean as it would hover again around 2500-3000(did the same thing when it was about out of gas one time). Now I have the 20's in and with each 1/8th turn out the idle gets more solid sounding and feeling, got the mix screws out 1/2 turn now,

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not absolutely positive the slides are going as far down as they should on their own as if I push the throttle toward the close position the rpm will settle to 1400.

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I would take a close look at this and see what is going on here. something seems amiss.
i would leave the cables hooked up, and take the carbs off. then inspect the slides to see if they are returning properly when u operate the cables.

sigh , as I stated in a different thread, I got the engine good and hot last night and sprayed carb cleaner where the carbs enter the manifolds and the 2 center carbs dropped in rpm so they are leakin air, and for some reason they don't seem to mount as far into the manifold as the outside carbs do, will be ordering new boots tomorrow I suspect. Any of you that feel like sayin I told you so , feel free.

I... feel bad for you. Sucks to ahve to wait for stuff, I know.

If they still have some pliability, you can pull them off, clean them real good, then re-install them with some Permatex Moto-Seal (gas resistant stuff/grey tube), and crank them down hand tight.

I have found that to solve many an air leak problem for years before having to order new stuff.
Also, greese up the intake boots (where carbs go), and the carb bodies (part you insert), beefore you re install.

Good luck!

Godfrey wrote: sigh , as I stated in a different thread, I got the engine good and hot last night and sprayed carb cleaner where the carbs enter the manifolds and the 2 center carbs dropped in rpm so they are leakin air, and for some reason they don't seem to mount as far into the manifold as the outside carbs do, will be ordering new boots tomorrow I suspect. Any of you that feel like sayin I told you so , feel free.

No its just good to see that while you are finding problems still, they can be sorted and you sound like it has been running pretty good, except still a hanging Idle. Keep on it and it will all work out.

Godfrey wrote: sigh , as I stated in a different thread, I got the engine good and hot last night and sprayed carb cleaner where the carbs enter the manifolds and the 2 center carbs dropped in rpm so they are leakin air, and

******for some reason they don't seem to mount as far into the manifold as the outside carbs do, will be ordering new boots tomorrow I suspect. Any of you that feel like sayin I told you so , feel free.

what manifolds do u have to use? J's ?

Ok I can end this thread FINALLY!!!! New manifolds and everything is workin right,some of you folks have given me the patience award so to speak;I started getting this project going last august, engine needed new seals and the top end reassembled, so patience I had plenty of- riding time not so much,lol. Hope to make up for that before snow flies here. Thanks to all who gave advice and particularly those that stuck with me thru this,

Ed

glad to hear that all is well.
how about telling everyone how it performs. lots of guys ask if rs34's are to be for a 750cc.
what is your opinion?
do they lack bottom end power and scream at high rpms ?

A rich idle will cause the motor to settle down low in rpms

Lean and it will go up high.

Wouldn't you say it's safe to say....

when you have an idle at 1200 to 1400 it's not quite right?

Hey mark turn your idle down to 1000rpm and if your bike don't run right...

you need to check into why....

Mine is different but it idles at 500 without a problem.. (different set up though( but still.

If yours doesn't stay stable you may need to retune... something.

If an ignition spark is weak and varying, the idle will do different rpm patterns cold, warm and in between. It must be confirmed that spark energy is up to 100% before any attempt is made to tune the carbs for idle.

My bike was down on voltage (I did not know it at the time), I changed the timing so many times and there was one marked spot where the motor had great performance on top and sounded good.

When open the throttle at 70mph or 60mph, Stock gearing, you can tell by the sound of the motor whether it's too advanced or not enough. It should sound smooth and pull nice. The idle will be fantastic as well....

That setting was the most retarded one I marked out by the way.....

Now that my charging system is working that setting is too advanced. And that setting is nowhere near the fire mark. None of the settings are at the fire mark. They would be too advanced.

It really depends on the how fast the mixture burns as to where the timing is going to be set for max performance.

But man yu gotta have gas at idle..



It's nice to have a higher idle sometimes though, it allows smoother shifts and gets back on it's feet faster. But it isn't the fastest response or the biggest power.

If you have to idle up, somting rong.

I can't say what these carbs would do on a stock engine, but I am thoroughly satisfied with the performance thru out the whole rpm range on this one. I've been told that the cams I have make very lil vacumn at idle, so much so that cv carbs just wouldn't run;I have to say however I usually have a smile on my face most anytime I pull away from a stop sign, more then ample power with no flat spots from idle to 10 grand if need be. They definitely scream above 5 grand if opened up, but more then respectable from idle to 5 grand too.

nads.com wrote:
Hey mark turn your idle down to 1000rpm and if your bike don't run right...

you need to check into why....

Mine is different but it idles at 500 without a problem.. (different set up though( but still.

It's nice to have a higher idle sometimes though, it allows smoother shifts and gets back on it's feet faster. But it isn't the fastest response or the biggest power.

If you have to idle up, somting rong.

my bike will idle at 1000 rpm no problem. but with the high lift long duration cam its a very lumpy idle so i prefer to set the idle at 1200 so it warms up faster and idles smoother.