VM24 SS Carb Settings (Straight Pipes & Pods)

More
31 May 2010 21:02 - 31 May 2010 21:05 #372507 by Patton
Replied by Patton on topic 26mm Carb Settings (Straight Pipes & Pods).
Clear tube test is most reliable method to assure fuel levels being to specs. As it shows the actual fuel level inside the bowls.

Good Fortune! :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 31 May 2010 21:05 by Patton.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
31 May 2010 21:10 #372509 by Sircraigery
Replied by Sircraigery on topic 26mm Carb Settings (Straight Pipes & Pods).
Makes sense.

How do I test it though? I figure, as soon as it's coming out of the overflow, that must mean it's too high. I'm not sure how to test them with clear hose. Just bend to tube up vertical to the carb and see how high the fuel goes?

On second thought, with this method I can figure out exactly where the fluid level should be. The fuel level should be between the jets and the overflow, and that's about it right? Just make sure the pilot and main gets are submerged, and you should be good to go?

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
31 May 2010 21:21 #372515 by Patton
Replied by Patton on topic 26mm Carb Settings (Straight Pipes & Pods).


Good Fortune! :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Attachments:

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
01 Jun 2010 22:14 #372753 by Sircraigery
Replied by Sircraigery on topic 26mm Carb Settings (Straight Pipes & Pods).
I forgot to go to the hardware store to try your method, but floats set at 28mm above the gasket worked great. No more leaks!

I put the one bowl, that I could actually get the drain screw out of, on the outside.When I get a chance I'll try your method to verify the fluid level.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
12 Jun 2010 10:19 #375263 by Sircraigery
Replied by Sircraigery on topic 26mm Carb Settings (Straight Pipes & Pods).
Here's an Update on how the bike is running.


It starts easy, but only with choke (while it's cold). I can cut the choke within about 2 minutes of idling, without having the bike stall. It idles good. Throttle response is good and fast.

Once it's warm, on acceleration, initially it bogs a bit, then picks up fine once rpm rises a bit. On deceleration, it sputters and pops. I can get to 135 km/h or 84 mph on the highway but I think this is a tad slow for it.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
12 Jun 2010 11:59 - 12 Jun 2010 18:10 #375274 by Patton
Replied by Patton on topic 29mm Carb Settings (Straight Pipes & Pods).
Sircraigery wrote:


....


Sircraigery wrote:can get to 135 km/h or 84 mph on the highway but I think this is a tad slow for it....


In the video, bike sounds like it's running on just 3 cylinders (sometimes maybe just 2).

Would spray water mist on headers while engine's running to determine which cylinder(s) is/are missing. Use a common household hand-held plastic water-spray bottle. Must be plastic, as glass won't work, and neither will the commercial versions as mostly seen at intersections.

If cylinder is combusting, mist will sizzle and instantly vaporize when hitting the header pipe. Otherwise, water will just run down the pipe.

Bike should do 84mph in 3rd gear, even as a hardtail. Is it being shifted into 5th?

Imo, need to start with ---

--- Valve clearances to spec, plus compression test.

--- Then check ignition timing dynamically (engine running) with timing light, including verification of proper advancer function.

--- Using four brand new spark plugs of correct spec, attached to plug wires with bases held against engine head, spin engine over and visually examine spark quality. Look for healthy blue spark.

--- Figure out how to remove drain plugs, and perform a proper clear tube test, which shows actual real world fuel level inside float bowls, and don't rely on the float height, which is notoriously inaccurate. Repeat over and over, "It's fuel level, not float height."

--- After all the above (done correctly), finally address carb settings and internals. Imo, the pilot circuits remain imperfect for whatever reasons. And jet needle clips may also be in wrong slots. Would use middle-slot clip position for initial testing.

Perhaps the pilot circuit is responsible for so quickly fouling the spark plug, that the mid-range jet needle setting never stands a chance.

Good Fortune! :)

Wear protective goggles while using spray carb cleaner.

[Click on image to enhance view.]


1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Attachments:
Last edit: 12 Jun 2010 18:10 by Patton.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
12 Jun 2010 17:59 #375328 by tinlizzie37
Replied by tinlizzie37 on topic 26mm Carb Settings (Straight Pipes & Pods).
Hi sircraigery, I believe you have the stock carbs on the bike,VM24SS. The bike really sounds as it's starving for fuel. With pods and straight pipes, I would think you would need larger jets. My stock 650 E1 has a 4 to 1 exhaust and I have the 17.5 idle jets and 115 mains, with the needles set on the last slot (all the way rich). It runs great, but I think my mains could drop a size, since I'm not getting the mileage I should.After stopping the engine and checking the plugs, they tend to have some fuel residue on them. I also have K@N filter pods. The bike runs strong and doesn't hesitate like yours does. I hope this helps you out, Bob

Bob KZ 650 E1, En 450

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
12 Jun 2010 18:47 #375339 by Sircraigery
Replied by Sircraigery on topic 26mm Carb Settings (Straight Pipes & Pods).
I forgot to mention, I still have throttle left at full speed, and she bogs when I try to go any faster.

Not sure if that changes anything. I can't seem to find any good info for troubleshooting carbs online, with the symptoms I have. Thanks again to everyone.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Powered by Kunena Forum