"J" bike with pods+exhaust jet size?

If it is lean I shouldn't be riding around right? I would love to roll into work with it and show those honda spirit riding doofusses what a real bike looks like...25 miles on back roads will keep things cool enough right?

p.s. I actually was going to do the wgcm, but let omr talk me out of it and now have 13 volts with no bypass...crappy grounds and bad previous owner wire splices were to blame

9am53 wrote:

If it is lean I shouldn't be riding around right? I would love to roll into work with it and show those honda spirit riding doofusses what a real bike looks like...25 miles on back roads will keep things cool enough right?

p.s. I actually was going to do the wgcm, but let omr talk me out of it and now have 13 volts with no bypass...crappy grounds and bad previous owner wire splices were to blame

thats the professor omr coil mod,fix what you have! :laugh:

oh, I get it...haha

hmm, if I go back to my old wiring I would have weak spark and likely start fouling my plugs again...hmmm, maybe I should undo the omr coil mod fix and not be running so hot!

To change needle height can I just take off the tops and tip them over to slide the needles out, or do I have to remove the diaphrams and slides completely to get them out. I don't want to rip the diaphrams if I can avoid it of course.

p.s. Is riding around a little lean a really bad thing? I don't want to ruin anything, but I really am having issues with staying off the bike...

It is never a good idea to run lean. It depends on what you call "A LITTLE" It is just as easy to remove the slides as it is to remove just the needles. I think that actually it might be simpler to take the slides out. The diaphragm is not attached to the carburetor in any way, it just sits there in the grove. Make sure and double sure and triple sure that you put the diaphragm in right. That in fact they are captured in the body grove all the way around if not you will have a problem. I know I did that the first time i put a set of these together.

Thanks Otto, I'll take your advice. Other than making sure the diaphram is in the slot is there any other things to consider when putting them back in? Is there a front or back, or are they just round and can go in any way?

The diaphragm is keyed. There is a small oval notch in the grove on the carb casting and there is a corresponding rubber "nub" on the edge of the diaphragm. Meaning, YES THERE IS A FRONT AND A REAR. Did you enlarge the vacuum hole in the slide with the drill bit provided in the DJ kit? That hole must be in a precise position in the carb.

I did not enlarge the hole myself, but it was enlarged as per DJ instructions. Tonight I will put the glass packing into my baffle, and my 137.5 and 140 mains are on order...I will throw those in and try it out, based on how they work I will raise the needle and experiment some more...

Thank God jets are cheap and available, and also thank God I enjoy playing around, and lastly thank God there are friendly and helpful people in cyberspace!

Don't forget, the Main jets only take effect in the last 10-15% of the throttle opening. The needles run the bike everywhere between the Idle jet (first 5-12%) and the Mains. You are running on the needles 95% of the time. The needles are 10x more important than the main jets, since hardly ever are you past 120MPH.

When I am cruising and release the throttle the tach returns to idle, and I hear some grumbling from the exhaust. It is not popping anymore since I put some glass fiber around the baffle, now it just grumbles a little. If my mixture screws are set right, would this indicate a too small pilot jet?

p.s. I went for a ride yesterday after putting the packing on the baffle and I think things are slowly working themselves out on their own. I ahve the new jets in the mail, but I am thinking I may not really need them. For some reason the biek rode really well lsat night, and I really had to temper my throttle hand to keep from going too fast. Could the bike just be starting to break in and run normally now?

If you have the throttle all the way closed than the pilot jets are not effective, only the pilot screws are. Not until you crack the throttle do the pilot jets take effect Your pilot screws may not be set evenly or your carbs are not synchronized right. This is where synchronization plays a HUGE part. In the first 2500 RPM. If the carbs are not Synched than all the cylinders are trying to run at different RPM.

AHHH, yes the bike is not yet vaccuum synched, I bet you are right.

Does it happen that bikes start to run better a few hundred miles after a rebuild? I also noticed that the weather was nicer yesterday, are pods sensitive to weather more than an airbox?