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rebuilt 28's. poppin thru pod filters! why?
- Patton
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- KZr Legend
took this bike to have carbs rebuilt and tuned properly at a bike shop. should I take it back???
Any decent tune-up would include assuring valve clearances being to specs.
Before deciding about taking it back, would personally measure the valve clearances. Being too tight would indicate having received less than a proper tune-up. And raise concerns about the shop's competence and integrity if for example you supposedly received more that new plugs and a dose of SeaFoam plus some carb pilot screw fiddling.
Pinging NOT under load -- okay, but would remove and examine plugs anyway to get an idea of what's happening inside the combustion chambers.
Good Luck!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- tachrev
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- Rubber Side Goes Down
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only when i lean foward to hold on and hit the gas is when i hear it
Along with popping during cruise conditions.
I would check the timing, it sounds like it could be too far advanced. Also, the pilot jet of 117 doesn't sound anywhere near right. Should be 15, 17.5, 20, Etc. Even if they left of the decimal, which happens, there should be no 11.7 pilot jet for VM's.
My second guess would be that it is too lean, either due to a vacuum leak or jetting.
Finally valve clearances.
Bottom Line: If you paid a shop to tune it, then it should run right when you get it back. It does not.
I would take it back, or get my money back.
1977 Kawasaki KZ1000 : Street/Strip
Build Thread
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- KOOL RYDER
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- KZ 650B2 / KZ 1000E
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I had an air leak on my bike and that was the symptom, every 15 sec it would spit out of the carbs... it kind of made a "ppffffffhhhh" sound..... 15 sec and then "ppfffffhhhh" . My bike would also only run with the choke up.
After I solved the problem the popping stopped and the bike runs perfectly.
Rockin\' a KZ650B2 since 2007 and a KZ 1000E since 2008
1978 KZ650B
1979 KZ1000ST
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- old_skool_77
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1975 z1 900
1976 kz 900
1977kz 1000
1980kz 1000 ltd
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- keith1
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I checked the timing and it was at its proper setting. as far as the pilots, my mistake but they are 17.5. I was told by the shop that worked my bike, that want me to bring it back and they adjust the slide needles down to the fourth notch to richen up the mix. does this seem right? The fuel mix screws are set to 1 1/4 turns out. If I turn these in 1/4 to 1/2 turns in should this compensate for the mix compared to the adjustments of the needles? As far as vacumm leaks are concerned. Everthing as far as gaskets and and o rings and hoses and such has been replaced with new stuff.
if it were me id go with #20 pilots and 4th clip the needles.....if they are willing to take it back in and fix it, do it....service like that is getting rarer these days.....1 1/4 turns is right and messing with that will do a little, but its not gonna replicate 4th clipping the needle.....i m sure others will chime in...
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- old_skool_77
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1975 z1 900
1976 kz 900
1977kz 1000
1980kz 1000 ltd
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- keith1
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Me too. My plan was originaly was to go with 20 pilots and 130 or 132 mains, but the shop guy said the stockers would be fine so I let him run the show. Think that I will move the slide down with the 20's and the 132 main or just the pilots and the needles knocked down?
132 main sounds awfull big to me....what are specs and what kind of pipe/baffle? and 4th clipping will raise the needle allowing more fuel in....
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- jimstan
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4th clip should be the fix For the popping.
Your just running a little lean on decel.
This is very common.
The Fuel mix screws are for a different circut, you should leave those alone.
What Tackrav said:
"Bottom Line: If you paid a shop to tune it, then it should run right when you get it back. IF It does not. I would take it back, or get my money back. "
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- Old Man Rock
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Just recently had to go through emissions... To pass, I had leaned the slow jet screws (Pilots) way out which causes popping out the carbs. So turned them back in just a tad (RICHER) thus end of popping and got through emissions.
Since you just had these carbs worked on, possibly wrong size pilot jets if popping at idle as well or they aren't calibrated correctly.
If popping at 1/4 to 3/4 throttle then needle jet clip position, running too lean. Or wrong needle jet itself.
What do the plug insulators look like?
Black, brown/tan or white....
Did you have this problem pre-carb work?
If no then most probably not your valves or timing.
There's also that I may have missed something that was already mentioned so I'll shut up now.... lol!
OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- KZ_Rage
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- Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale
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Do you ride with your legs hugging the tank or out some? If you ride with them out some, the outside two carbs will bog/lean and pop if you twist it up. Get used to riding with your knees on the tank sides and you won't feel that power drop and pop/surge. Some guys fab little shields for the outside pods to help cut the blast from your legs acting like scoops.
If you're still having fits trying to set it let me know and I'll dig through my notes or through my leftover jets to try and determine where I ended up, it's easy to lose track of what you did a year ago after trying several different setups to dial it in right.
1979 KZ1000E1 SOLD!
1984 KZ550F2 SOLD!
2006 ZG1000A6F (Totaled)
2001 ZRX1200R (Sold)
2001 Sprint 955i ST (daily rider)
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- 76 LTD
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- old_skool_77
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1975 z1 900
1976 kz 900
1977kz 1000
1980kz 1000 ltd
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