parts guys cant ID this carb

Sorry JR! :blush: You posted before I did, you are right sudco.com would be the place to go if you need a new pilot jet.

tried them but all they have are ones that are 15mm long mine is 19mm. what can be used to oversize the jet with any accurcacy??
all the microfich pictures that I have seen at bikebandit, kawasaki.com and others show that the slow jet is under that plug and its a n424-25. but as mentioned its 15mm long with 2 side holes and mine is 19mm with 3 side holes.
I do have pods but have custom made 4 into 2 pipes with 4" baffles.I can get the #140 mains but no action on the #42 pilots.
I'am so close to finishing this is driving me nuckin futs:blink:
can I get a really small drill bit and oversize them?? if so what size??
I'm getting desperate. my bike runs like poop with the carbs as is so leaving them as is ain't an option..
anyone got a set of mikuni bs34 they wanna trade for..

jmargrav above makes an excellent point regarding using 70 primary main jet. Have you done anything with that one ?

Easy to get and if using something smaller here then you will need bigger.

Jim, my carbs are off of an 82 Honda GL500 silverwing. Im not sure of the model, but they are keihins. In my manual for this bike, it said not to remove the plug or the slow jet at all. That WAS my problem tho, it was clogged. I havent had to try and find jets for it, but maybe you'll have better luck with Honda? DOubt it tho. Sorry about your woes, i know how annoying it can be to have probably the smallest, cheapest part of your bike cause so many problems. Story of my life. Good luck!
Are you sure you need to rejet the slow? Ive been told with a set of pods and stock exhaust i wont have to make any changes. Someone correct me if im wrong?

the slow jet is a #35. it will run as is over 3k for almost a full minute before it settled back down to a respectable idle.when running there seems to be NO problem with the topend (runs like a raped ape:woohoo: )its just the slow idle. I did learn that a #40 drill bit is about 3 times larger than the #40 pilot..so tomorrow on my route I plan to get a #42 pilot or main to have as a reference to get a drill bit that size. got a customer who rides and he suggested putting it in a lathe to drill it to insure that its straight.makes sence.really grasping for straws here but I seriously don't know what to do.damn I'm soooooo close.

Once again I am still new but I think you are barking up the wrong tree. First off I have read several threads that discussed drilling out jets and they all come to the same conclusion, don’t do it. It had to do something with how the fuel will spray different or not be sucked out of the bowl right, I am not for sure, but I do know it is not a good idea to try. I think you should leave the pilot jet alone, besides a good cleaning, and just buy the primary and secondary main jets. I think on other carbs you can change the pilot jets, maybe some older mikuni or something. But if you are going to drill out your jets you have to let us know, I almost did it when I needed bigger primary main jets for my CV34’s. Just my input, do what you want with it, did not mean to piss you off telling you that I think you are wrong:lol:

in 52 years of life I have learned this 1 thing ... I'm wrong a hell of a lot more than I'm right. so feel free to tell me so any time,, chances are you will be correct...
the drill is a last resort but I really am getting desperate.. like I said above the top end is ok its winding down to an idle that takes way too long. thats why the obsession with the low speed idle..
you are the first one to mention the secondary.and the book dosen't mention them.sudco has the mains . another thing is that the specs call for the pilot th be a #37 and its a #35. this carb has been around so I'm noteven sure that its is from a kawa.. but keihin is keihin..
so you think that the secondarys would affect the ammount of time it takes for the idle to come back to normal??

jim_palmore wrote:

...will run as is over 3k for almost a full minute before it settled back down to a respectable idle.when running there seems to be NO problem with the topend (runs like a raped ape:woohoo: )its just the slow idle.

Random thought -- is there an ignition timing advancer unit that could be hanging in the advanced position so as to delay returning to lower idle rpm?

Another -- possible leak allowing intrusion of outside air being sucked into fuel mixture and causing unstable idle. Usual suspects are old cracked carb holders, loose clamps, hard vacuum caps, cracked vacuum line, etc. Could check by spraying WD40 or propane around suspected areas with engine running, and notice any difference in rpm or smoke from exhaust indicating WD40 or propane neing sucked in from the outside.

And one more -- throttle cable connection and associated carb fittings might be too tight without sufficient slack to readily allow immediate full closure upon releasing throttle, or maybe throttle cables just need lubrication.

Good Luck!

Well doing some more research I found out that you are exactly right, I wanted you to only worry about the primary main jet when the pilot system in the carb consists of the pilot air jet, pilot jet, primary main jet, bypass outlet, pilot outlet, and pilot screw, according to my service manual. And the manual also states that the pilot system determines the operation of the carburetor from 0 to ¼ throttle opening. SO now I guess you should check to see if your primary mains are flowing enough, your pilot jet is flowing enough, and if the pilot screw is in correct position. I guess it turned out we were both right!:lol: With pipes and pods I still think you should move up to a number 70 primary main and also a larger pilot jet, and I think the recommendation was 2 turns out on the pilot screw that is located on top of the carburetor. That was a lot of info, I really hope this helped!:woohoo:

got an email back from a place called www.motorcyclecarbs.com . they said they have the correct pilot. but they didn't give me a part #. they probibly saw the reference part and assumed it was the one.
if no action by this weekend I'm gonna put everything back together and fire it up and do that leak test thing.I have a float valve that was stickin and thinking about that and what Patton said I should check some things..
also jmargrav does your books tell where the needle valve should be,,ie. which notch . is there a setting for racing since the pods allow more air like a race carb would do.my $80.00 service manual only mentions makuni carbs..

I checked wiredgeorges site and found out that he was sick and outta the game for a week. he says he's better but playing catch up. been to texas and it gets major hot there..
I appreciate all the help.

crap.... I finally go in touch with wiredgeorge and they no longer make parts for my carbs. plus the sizes he recommended were for a mikuni bs34 and not my keihin cv34..
I got no other choice than to find the correct pilot size and have a friend drill them on a lathe..
I feel life my friggin dog died:(

talked to rob at Z1 for about 45 minutes and HE KICKS BUTT!!!!!!:woohoo: :woohoo:
those pilots I have are from a kz750e..
Its rare to find a place that will actually provide customer service but Z1 did..
so back on the trail... hope this light at the end of the tunnel isn't a freight train coming my way..:laugh: