Trying to get my 77 KZ650 on the Road

Ok, I cleaned up the carbs. I pulled the main jets, floats, bowls. And Have cleaned the snot out of them. I let the parts soak in a ultrasonic cleaner. They are clean!! I put them back together this evening and put them back on the bike. Still did not want to start with out starting fluid. Really starting to get pissed. I know the carbs are clean. I have cured the fuel overflow problem. I am very pleased with my throttle response now that the carbs are clean. Very Nice. I am hoping that the starting problem is just because the carbs were dry. I will try to start tomarrow when I get home from work. That will be the real test. I can only imagine that if I still have problem with the bike not wanting to start without starting fluid, that I need to look further into checking the timing. I have tried, but it was in the middle of the day very sunny and could not see with the timing light. I just really could not see in there not very much space to see. It sure is not like timing on a car. Any suggestions would be great.

You pulle the mains but you didnt pull out the pilots to clean them. your pilot jets is your idle circuit. Also didyou pull the chock valves out and inspect.

Never said I was a CARB SPECIALEST. I pulled the lower end of the carb and completely cleaned the parts. May not know all the proper names of the parts. I pulled everthing on the lower end of the carbs. I did not want to go to far into it. Because I did not have rebuild kits for each carb. I pulled the upper caps of carbs as weel and cleaned.
On another note:
I checked my coils just now, with a multimeter. I am no electrician nether. But If I have the settings right on the meter. I think I have about 6 ohms on one end and around 16 ohms on the other. Not up to par. Like I said I really am no electrician never really used a multimeter. My book says to set to R x 1 for check one end and set to Rx100 for other. I don't have this specific setting on my multimeter. I am thinking that the book is a little dated. Or maybe I don't know what setting it really is.

Sounds like you are on your way to becoming a specialist with all of the good work you are doing.

Don't worry about the specific settings on the multimeter, that just concerns where the decimal is placed on the readout screen. R x 1 means that the number on the screen reads times one, R x 100 means that it reads times one hundred. So .016 on x1000 is still 16 ohms just as .16 on x 100 would be 16 ohms as well.

With my bike, the starting problem seemed to be a mix of both fouled carbs and fouled electrical. From the experiences that you are describing and the questions you are asking, I think that you are on the right track to getting it handled. You are progressing well.

Do look into the aftermarket electronic ignition. It will do away with the points and timing problems forever.

These older bikes seem to be plagued by weak spark. There is a link somewhere to a simple add on relay curcuit that will amplify spark power. Just something else to consider.

I went through all sorts of headaches to get my bike to where it is now. Looking back, it is totally worth it.

I have already done the relay addition. It did improve the whole problem. Before I could only start with starting fluid. Now once she is up and running it will restart without fluid. So I am getting somewhere. The after market Ignitions I have seen are pricey. Are there any specific brands to seek or are there any to stay away from.

Post edited by: srobie1, at: 2007/07/24 18:35

You dont need to be a specialist, sorry if I made it sound like that:blush: .
When I first started to work on my bike I didnt know the little peices either. What I found out that helped out a lot was just knowing the peices and items in the carb. I'll look for a diagram with the specifics.

One thing I remember is pulling my @%^#& carbs off a m#^*@()$*$g again:ohmy: . I must have had them off at least 7 times before I knew all the peices, cause every time I would learn a new piece I would go further into the carbs:)

The pilots are in a hole next to the main jets you will need to get a small skinny screwdriver to get to it.

Well No I didn't pull them I didn't know they were there.:S I didn't mean to insult by saying Specialest. I am just getting very frustrated with #%^*! thing. I just want to getting the bike running right in order to start riding it to work. I need to get tires before I can even do that seeing how they are dry, cracked, and no good for any kind of riding. They sat for to long, I did ride around the hood with them but was not very happy when I got up to any speed. Marshmellow City!!:blink: I guess I will be taking the carbs off again. To clean the Pilots. If you all think it is needed. I tought I had done a good job of cleaning. I appreciate the advise.

from Kawasaki.com

Once upon a time

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/07/25 20:04

there lived an infamous triple poster

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/07/25 20:06

:woohoo: That did it. I think. I pulled the carbs and cleaned the pilots. Put them back on the bike. And she started on the first touch of the starter. Right now, with NO STARTING FLUID OR CHOKE.:woohoo: Hey SnakeByte If your ever in FLA I owe you a beer. Real test will be tomarrow when I go to start again. I am on my way I think. Patton thanks for the diagrams very helpful. May need to double check my coils to ensure everthing is up to par now. Any other suggestions are appreciated.

On the subject of cold starting. I'm not sure how the 650 is set up but I believe it is like my 750 twin (only 1/2 the carb problems you have:woohoo: )with 3 settings on the petcock valve marked pri, on and reserve. If it is like mine it is vacuum driven to open and let fuel from the tank to the carbs. flip it to PRI (prime) for 30-45 seconds, allow the carbs to fill and then go through your start procedure. Once the bike is started flip the switch to "on" and ride off into the sunset.
Guys am I possibly on the money here or have I forgotten to take my meds again?