Trying to get my 77 KZ650 on the Road

I got the bike about a month ago. And it has sat for a few years. The first day home I got it started right up. I did the normal (changed the oil, plugs, marvel oil on the pistons) a little starting fluid and she was running. High RPMS though. I tweaked the idle down and then got a slapping noise, I later found out through this site and and the help of all you guys that it was not rings like I thought. Just coils. So the search for a cheap set of coils was on. (I am on a tight budget) I found a set here on KZRIDER through a member and 2 weeks later I had them. But they turned out to be the wrong ones. So I found a set on EBAY and I got them another week later. They were the right ones! Now with the coils on. (I also got new points and condenser.)The bike will idle fairly good. My next issue is the carbs. Tonight I dropped each bowl on each carb and spayed the heck out of the floats and got all the crap out of the bottom of the bowls. They were pretty dirty. Put it all back together and started it back up. Still needed starting fluid. But I can see a big difference though Improvement for sure. Alot better throttle response. Seems every once and a while I get a pop out of the number one carb (misfire??) This carb number one was the dirtest one out of the group. Not surprized, to have the popping. I have put pod style filters on it seeing how the original air box cracked and half way gone. So I just removed it. The cleaning I did tonight did help. But I know It needs more. I also have noticed smoke coming from the factory Kerker 4 into 1 pipes. The smoke seems to be from the number one area right were it meets the head. I think. I am sure this is related somehow. This is my first street bike, I have done a couple dirt bikes and have built a few cars. So I like to think I am pretty good with my hands. But this one is starting to get the better of me. I just want to get it running good so I can have a daily driver. I like the bike and I can't seem to get over how great this site is. A lot of support from real people. Its just great. So again, I am in seek for more advice. I not really wanting to remove the carbs and trying to rebuild them on my own. Maybe there is someone here in my area with some knowledge of rebuilding these carbs that wants to help a brother out and make a new freind. I am in Clearwater Florida. If not, any advice will be greatly appreciated.

I hope to work on the bike later this afternoon. So any suggestions would be great.

You might not need to actually rebuild the carbs, but after sitting for a few years (especially if with stale fuel in them) they're likely just in need of a good thorough cleaning.

If you're confident enough in your mechanical skills, it's really not all that hard to remove and clean the carbs.
Just take your time in disassembling them, don't force things to come loose, and place removed parts in a row so you can remember what sequence they need to be re-installed in.
If you have a digital camera, take lots of pics as you go along, as they will greatly aid in reassembling things.

I know you stated that your airbox was damaged, but by swapping from the airbox to pod filters it's going to cause your bike to run leaner (dramatically increased airflow), therefore you will need to step up the main jet 1~2 sizes and raise the needle as well.
Personally, I'd try to locate a (good) used airbox on eBay rather than mess with trying to get the carbs jetted properly for the pods - it's almost a science to do this, and at the very least a large PITA. :pinch:

If you get stuck somewhere along the way, just pop in here and toss your questions to the masses.
A lot of us have already been through this (multiple times in some cases :whistle:), and will gladly help you out.

The end result will be that your bike will run, plus you'll have the satisfaction of having done it yourself. It will also help you to become more familiar with your bike and what makes it "tick".

I think I may try to clean them up myself. I really dont have the resources $$$ to spend on having someone do them for me. Plus I am more of a hands on kind of guy. I am kind of a lone wolf I really don't have any freinds that turn wrenches to help out. New in the area. Thanks for the advise I just needed the confidence to takle it. Carbs just scare me, especailly when there is 4 of the suckers in a row. If I try it myself do I need to resink them? That takes a specail tool doesn't it? I want to try keep the pods I think they look bitchin'. You say I may need to change the jets. How do you know what size you currently have on the bike to beggin with? Are they marked?

I got to take a ride:woohoo: Runs pretty good. Not were it needs to be though. Still need to give it a shot of starting fluid to get it started. How can I get it to start on its own? It felt great to go for a ride. I feel a little better now. Need to get it tweeked in better. Any suggestions??

kind of a dumb question but do you use the choke to start it after sitting over night? I know my 650 will start without choke but I have to give it a little gas until she gets warmed up but if I choke it it'll fire and run about 1500rpm then by the time I get my gear on I take choke off and she's good to go. I would also check the points to make sure they are gapped correctly. just a thought...

Besides the problem with getting the bike to start with out starting fluid. I have a question as to what light bulb is needed for the brake light on my 77 kz650. Thought I had a bad fuse, turns out there was no bulb. I had one that works in my box of trix. Pluged it in and it works, But it is constintly on. I hit the brakes and it gets no brighter. I really just need a part number for the bulb. Anyone Know? I hope it is in need of just a bulb and not a bad switch or something. Is there any adjustmet I can do to the carbs to make starting easier? Or is this my punishment for putting air pods on. Or I am not complete with carb cleaning.

The part number for the bulb is 630426-001 at bikebandit.com It may not be the bulb, it should be on at all times and get briter when the brakes are applied. It may be the brake light switch for the rear brake ( www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=3214 ) and the front brake uses a pressure switch so you really have to squeeze it when the bike is just sitting there to get it to come on.

As far as the starting goes I had the same problem. Check the point gaps and clean them up or replace them. I also did the WG coil mod and if fires right up. Good luck.

Maybe a silly question but what is the WG coil mod? I have seen it in here before. I have searched the forum with no results also did a search on ebay no results. I have replaced the points and condenser. I will recheck the breaker point gaps again. Is it better to be on the high end or low end of the tolerance. Or should I shot for the mean (middle). I think the gap is to be .012- .016. Is there any way to ensure that you have the motor turned to the correct spot for setting. Or is it just an eyeball thing?

www.wgcarbs.com/index.php?option=com_con...view&id=12&Itemid=26

WG coil mod is how to ensure full voltage is supplied to your coils using a relay. Never posted a URL before, hope it works. URL, is that like uncle Earl? :side:


80' kz650 F1 choke. Mine will not start cold without choke. :sick: Once warmed up it will. I live at 2200 ft above sea level if that matters. All stock as far as I know.

wow, now I know. Thanks, very helpful site. I am going to try to reset the timing today. I need to wait for it to cool off outside. temp outside is 102 in the sun. I went and bought a multimeter and a timing light. Hope I can manage to follow directions out of my book. I am no electrician. Wiring can get me scratching my head. I really don't even know how to run a multimeter. I am just going to follow the directions and try to learn. I may try the WG mod after I know the timing is correct. Any tips would be great.

Another 77 KZ650... cool. The "WG Coil Mod" or "Ignition Coil Re-powering Modification" is used to overcome the poor wire connections due to deterioration over the decades. The idea is to by pass all the old stuff and to connect the battery to the coil more directly. I used a separate 5 Amp fuse to make troubleshooting easier. See my diagram attached below. I had to shrink it to fit so if its not readable I can PM it to you.


Sorry, I typed up my response but got interrupted before I could submit it by a plumbing problem in the basement. When I got back to my PC I just submitted before re-checking the thread.

Well now you have two responses to work with. Best of success.

Post edited by: bill_wilcox100, at: 2007/07/15 22:49