HELP! dying under throttle

Yeah from the actual carb 4 that is the only one with a dedicated vacuum line. The carb holders have the ports on them and they are plugged off. Make sense now?

Well we changed the plugs cause they were carbon fouled. Same deal though, popping at idle, bogs down and will die if you give it throttle. Does it matter if the smog stuff is hooked up or not? Anybody have any ideas?

Might need to try the direction WiredGeorge was headin' down. I had a similar condition on my bike, which is totally different from yours, but still same symptoms. It was jetted too lean. Check the manual or possibly some info on here and find out what the jets are supposed to be. Can't just assume they're stock. Sounds odd that the choke flaps were missing. And if they are stock, what else has changed from the stock setup? Headers?
The vacuum lines shouldn't make that much difference if they're capped off. If my understanding is correct, and I'll admit I'm a novice at best, vacuum power is just a way for the engineers to scavenge a little free power. That is, "we'll take a little bit of that suction that the engine is producing anyway and use it to pull fuel into the carbs via this handy vacuum petcock." Same with the smog stuff. So capping it off is just gonna cut off whatever they're supposed to assist and not really affect the carbs doing what they're supposed to do.
Try opening the drain screw on the carb bowls while you have the petcock in the "Pri" position. There should be gas pouring out.
If you've got gas there, then you probably either need to re-clean or re-jet the carbs with larger jets, cause it definitely sounds like a lean condition.
Good luck

well in the carb kits the jets were the same that were in the carbs.

So what else would cause it to not respond to throttle?
Would the needle affect it? I used the new ones in the kit and set the clip to match how the orig one was.(orig needle only had one position).

I know all 4 bowls have gas.

:dry: My good ness I am perplexed.

If you have the stock airbox/pipes and stock jetting, the idle mixture is lean and must be adjusted to richen it up some. The fouling of the plugs may not be due to jetting but is more likely due to ignition issues and/or lack of valve clearance. Please check the tech articles on the these subjects on our website www.wgcarbs.om under the "wg's Tech Stuff Index".

When you PARTIALLY CHOKE the carbs and try and come off idle, does it still bog? Use the choke to cut down on the airflow. This effectively changes the air/fuel mixture to enrichen it and it and is a good indicator of the pilot systems relative air/fuel condition. In other words, if you can partially choke the bike and it takes off nicely, then you need to richen the pilot mixture. This is why they put a pilot mix screw on your bike. I think the screw controls air (on side of carb) so turn it in to richen.

The emissions part you took off the bike, put it back on. That emissions part stops the bike from backfiring and popping. I never moved mine, since it never did me any harm. It introduces fresh air into the exhaust to reduce backfiring. Put it back on and get back to us

The carbs should have 92 and 32 jets. If everything is stock, it shouldn't need a rejet.

If you blocked off the two big ports on top, and the two vacuum lines to the 1 and 4 manifolds, that should be fine. The emissions stuff isn't meant to stop backfires, it is designed to pull air into the exhaust. When it isn't working right it can cause backfires. Since you plugged it all, I wouldn't worry about it.

The TK-22 carbs have a dedicated port in the #4 carb. It's just another manifold vacuum port. That is one that goes to the petcock.

The 125 psi compression seems too low. I know the Clymer manual says 125 is ok as a minimum, but I've never seen one that low.

Since you rebuilt the carbs, I'm leaning toward an electrical problem.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2007/04/27 11:36

So what should we be looking at? Where is the popping comin from? What are some reasons for the boggin down and dying from throttling up? thanks

,

Did you replace the air cleaner?

Check the electrical forum for the details on the magnets.
kzrider.com/component/option,com_joomlab...w/id,134605/catid,4/

Make sure the timing is correct with a timing light, and make sure it is advancing properly. A timing light will also show if you are dropping sparks.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2007/04/27 13:09

EDIT:
I changed the page so the polarity can be confirmed through using a voltmeter instead of using the stripes/dots as the polarity test.
Details here:
home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/Ignitio.../PickupAndRotor.html

George, Yeah it picks up when turning the choke on or if i even cover one carb up. But it will never take much throttle..

Just looked at the magnet thread and yep its not on right. I will go try and change it.


Man I should have look in the electrics threads..

dang it sorry x-fingers

:sick: