TOPIC:

look down from the top with the tank off
and see if the linkage it being stopped by the clamp that holds the carb to the inlet rubber.
just happened to me once dude, just a non technical theory.

on my bike it was the screw that tightens the clamp it was stopping the linkage from coming all the back hence the 3000 tick over.
just a idea thought you should check to see you did the same as me lol.

Perhaps overlooked in the thread, but would be helpful to know the year and model of your bike.

ok, ill check that out, and my bike is a 79 sr650, that i am happy to say i paid 450.00, and all i had to do was flush the carbs

checked that kano, any other ideas? another symptom, when you first throttle back, it drops the idle down before reving up.

well maybe one of the other guys can chime in here.
id say possibly air leak as suggested,
or carb was assembled wrong sound like somthing to do with the idle circuit to me.
take them apart check everything is seated correctly make sure o rings are sealing as they should.

ok, when you say idle circuit, what is that, and how can i fix it? it cant be to difficult, can it? i have rebuilt edlebrock carbs,

Here for reference is a diagram of the 1979 KZ650SR carb from Kawasaki.com.
On your carbs, where are the pilot air screws located (on the sides or underneath)?

Another possible source for leaking outside air into the intake manifolds is a loose, cracked, ill-fitted, or missing vacuum cap, which is the rubber cap supposedly located on the nipple protruding from each intake manifold (these nipples are where the gauge tubes connect during synching procedure). Would double check all four vacuum caps to assure they are tight and secure. Sometimes they get so hard, brittle or cracked they will not seal. The earlier test mentioned about spraying around intake manifolds should indicate a vacuum cap leak as well as other sources such as cracked intake manifold or loose clamp holding intake manifold onto carb.

To help isolate the overly high idle problem to a particular cylinder, you might try removing a spark plug cap during the high idle and see if the rpm slows. Then repeat with each plug cap until you have tested every three cylinder idle speed combination.

Would like to know the results of the spray test and three cylinder test, as this could help with further diagnosis.

i dont mean to sound like a total moron, but which one is the pilot air screw?

Here's a pic from a '76 KZ900 with Mikuni 26's.
Air Pilot screw is circled.
Edit:
There's a screw on each carb, in that approx location. Get to carbs 1 & 2 from the left side, and get to carbs 3 & 4 from the right side.




Post edited by: ltdrider, at: 2007/02/22 19:00

air screws are on the side, how hard is it to resync the carbs? do i need to get a special tool, or can i do it by ear? ltdrider, thanks for the pic.