loose output shaft bearing

The output shaft bearing failed on my kz1000. I pulled the engine, split the cases, replaced the transmission bearings, and cleaned it up. I now have everything all put together and engine is back in the frame.

Naturally at this point I noticed the cases are not clamping the output shaft bearing tightly. I can move the bearing back and forth parallel to the shaft a little bit - the half ring in the cases is keeping it from moving further.  I had noticed some brinelling in the bearing bore on the cases, likely cause when the old bearing failed. I had thought about doing a dry fit to check this issue but it slipped my mind when I was assembling and now I'm here. I did check the bearing fitment on the shaft before assembly and it is a snug slip fit. 

I have seen other applications similar to this where the bearing-to-bore fit is a little loose to accommodate alignment issues with the bores. Is this fit normal here?

Had I caught this sooner I could have used bearing retainer compound. Id rather not go through the trouble of pulling the engine and spitting the cases again. I think I might be able to squirt a little bearing compound retainer  with a syringe in the sides of the bearing to help it from moving, but I'm not sure how effective that will be at this point. I'm also considering lightly staking the case along perimeter of the bearing to get it to clamp some. Thoughts?



   

personally I would stake it against the half moon. any lateral movement will cause "wear" making the fit even looser (just my opinion)

The only clean solution would be to do the job (remove the motor, split the housing), and gauge the bearing seat, but I can understand why you'd want to avoid that! I wouldn't caulk the housing; in the worst case, the housing would be completely unusable. Degreasing the bearing seat, then filling it with bearing adhesive and gluing it in place seems like the best approach at the moment.


...but that may not be the wisest of all solutions. The fact is: the outer bearing race has to be pressed firmly and centered in the housing somehow, otherwise you'll have recurring problems with it...but of course, you know that yourself. Sorry I can't offer a better solution here!

..4 Carefully welding points at the outer rim of the bearing...? I dunno...

There should be no sideways movement with the bearing.  You mentioned the bearing fit properly on the shaft and the half ring was installed.  It leaves me wondering if the half ring is properly in place and whether the bearing on the other end of the shaft is correctly sitting on its pin? 

I know it's a big job to pull it all apart again but I think you need to do it even for peace of mind.  I once found an extra thrust washer after reassembly and had to take everything apart to install it.  On another rebuild I took the engine apart five times because the kick start gear was engaging upon engine startup.  Turned out I had a close ratio transmission that a PO had installed that required removal of the kickstart.  So I know what frustration is like.  

I completely agree with what hardrockminer says here, as I already mentioned in my previous comments: it's the only "safe" solution! Sure, "double-work" ist always a damn  s**t,... but sometimes it is necessary..?- Just my opinion.
 

That plum sucks!! All that work to no resolve. Isn't a way you can effectively resolve that issue from the outside!! If it's moving to-fro then it also moving up-down. Noted on your last post concerning this, didn't want to purchase the OEM. Perhaps the set ring land on bearing you purchased isn't small enough, too wide allowing the bearing to walk. Maybe the OD is fractionally smaller, only takes a couple thousands of an inch to make a huge difference in practice. Looks like, i see grey, 3-bond whatever sealant, pushing out next to bearing. You Don't seal the case halves in this area!! I have been using Loctite 518 for all the engines i've done for years, just have to know how much and where to apply. Plus it's an Anabolic sealant, gives You all the time you need to assemble correctly before it sets. Sorry, gotta come back out and repeat for an effective fitment, bummer i know..  Loctite 620 sleeve retaining compound shown but Shouldn't be needed!        

And not just spouting pete-repete google crappy knowledge/info    , i live it. A KZ900 i'm finishing up

I love the work that you do Clay!

Had the same problem with the crank "walking" around due to a broken pin in the case. Had the journal welded and fitted the race by hand. Some of the others showed signs of movement. I used a punch to raise the areas and did it to the the output area too. What would have been a scrap case is still going strong to this day. Splitting the cases may be a pain but at least you won't have to do a complete teardown. This last time I replaced the tranny I noticed the small fork shaft that came with it was solid not hollow like the one I've been using all these years. I suspect it was flexing causing it to pop out of 2nd gear which only got worse in time. APE sold them and KHI may have gone this route on their later models as well. 
Steve

Couldn't count how many of the Thrust bearing upper pin castings i've seen broken/breaking out the castings of that sort. Have had plenty of case examples, no pun intended, . If it's a rare case then i send them out to a Friend that owns a machine shop. He makes all the wows go away.    
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Don't need the notoriety of BOTM, but i build engines all the time. I'm just having FUN. 

What often is the case, persons don't realize ALL Engines follow similar dynamics. To keep the field swept or the bead blaster, blowing air or       weedeater, same displine regardless of it's manufacture. I rebuild the all the stuff shown, ya gotta living in the country, no body's going to do it for you. If one gets overheated, jump in the pond/pool.