z750L: Repair starter clutch

Yes was them I was thinking about, did feel/hear any difference after replacing them?

Starter gear, quite big difference compare new and old:

Secondary shaft nut         - 60 Nm (44 ft.lbs)
Clutch hub nut            - 108-160 Nm (80-118 ft.lbs)
Clutch Spring Bolt`s         - ??? 
Oil Pan screws            - 6-9 Nm (5-7 ft.lbs)

Somebody know how many Nm I should apply on the Clutch Spring Bolt`s  ?
Is their some bolts/nuts I have forgotten?

I can apply the same Nm on nut for secondary shaft on both side of the motor?

Hope I can the last package during tody so I can complete these during the weekend...

Driller off the head on the nails today, should I just keep the rest of the nail and then weld between the rest and the plate?

Use something to push the plate completly down before welding, their are 3 springs pushing against?

the red frition plate is broken, I don’t need a new one?

You drilled off more of the rivet than might be ideal.  The rivets on my hub were flush after clamping everything down for the welder.

The red gasket thing isn't needed, from what I've read from others doing this repair.

P1020572 by nessism , on Flickr

Ah, okay. Did you grind the surface of the plate where you’re going to weld? Is it to ensure a better weld?

The welder ask if it’s normal black steel?

Nessism wrote:

You drilled off more of the rivet than might be ideal.  The rivets on my hub were flush after clamping everything down for the welder.

The red gasket thing isn't needed, from what I've read from others doing this repair.

P1020572 by nessism , on Flickr

This is why I suggested "grind" not "drill" but if your welder is on his "A" game you should be OK

Did not read good enougf

I talked with welder and see he has alot to weld on, he is pro so hope he is correct

I got the starter clutch installed today, but have some questions.

1. How can I torque up the clutch hub nut without the special clutch tool? I have a power gun that torque up to 400nm… how import is the nm on these nut?

2. The old paper gasket on the oilpane and clutch cover, I need to get it away 100% to avoid oil leak with the new gasket? Razerblad is the best to use for removing?

You can try putting it in 1st gear and get someone to apply the rear brake while you torque the nut. Correct torque is important 
A razor blade will work but be careful not to damage the surface 

Scotchbrite pad (maroon or gray, green is not coarse enough) with carb cleaner will get you clean gasket surfaces

Wookie58 wrote:

You can try putting it in 1st gear and get someone to apply the rear brake while you torque the nut. Correct torque is important 
A razor blade will work but be careful not to damage the surface 

I saw the same tips in the service guide made by a user on the forum, but when it's set in 1st gear, it will spin, since I don’t have any friction plate or springs installed… No clutch is installed, right?

I feel that is something stupid I don`t understand here