Help with First Restart After Carb Rebuild

Wookie58 wrote:

Wookie58 wrote:

When checking your coil resistance also check between the primary circuit and the mounting lug in case the coil is going to ground when hot (insulation breaking down)

PS: forgot to mention (if you didn't already know) when measuring resistance disconnect the wires from the component being measured (otherwise you will get a false reading through the circuit) and you need to test "hot" when the fault is present

So went ahead and did the valve clearances. Mostly in spec, but at the low end of the range. The measurements are using inches (.003 - 007"). Should I be changing out the shims for the .025 - .003" measurements I was getting? If I am in spec. then what else could be causing my failure to restart after the engine has warmed up?

What cam positioning method did you use to measure those clearances?  Did you use the method I suggested via PM, or did you point the cam lobe away from the bucket and measure there?

Either which way, I think all valves need to move one shim thinner.  That said, the clearances are not tight enough to cause running problems as is.

Have you done the electrical checks I suggested when hot (when the fault is present)
Have you tried spraying easy-start in the intakes when the fault is present
The above will determine if it's carbs or electrical

Nessism wrote:

What cam positioning method did you use to measure those clearances?  Did you use the method I suggested via PM, or did you point the cam lobe away from the bucket and measure there?

Either which way, I think all valves need to move one shim thinner.  That said, the clearances are not tight enough to cause running problems as is.

Started with lobes away method then did your method provided in the link you sent me. The numbers posted are from your method.

Wookie58 wrote:

Have you done the electrical checks I suggested when hot (when the fault is present)
Have you tried spraying easy-start in the intakes when the fault is present
The above will determine if it's carbs or electrical

What's the best way to use easy start with the factory air box and filter installed? just pull the filter and spray into the air box?

SnyperX wrote:

Wookie58 wrote:

Have you done the electrical checks I suggested when hot (when the fault is present)
Have you tried spraying easy-start in the intakes when the fault is present
The above will determine if it's carbs or electrical

What's the best way to use easy start with the factory air box and filter installed? just pull the filter and spray into the air box? Correct, try and direct it towards the intake trumpets

Wookie58 wrote:

Have you done the electrical checks I suggested when hot (when the fault is present)
Have you tried spraying easy-start in the intakes when the fault is present
The above will determine if it's carbs or electrical

I had a chance to put some heat on the coils via a heat gun and the primary and secondary readings stayed rock solid. 2.5 ohm and 12.5k ohm for both coils.

Both of the highlighted part have incredibly small orifices, which are highly likely to clog.

You must hold them up to a light, and make sure that you can see light through.  This is NOT an option.  I can't stress this enough.

To clear a blockage, I use a single strand of stiff wire pulled out of a midsized wire brush.  Poke out the hole, make sure light passes.