TOPIC:

Only use motor oil with JASO MA standard (Japanese Automotive Standards Organisation)
without anti-friction additives for engines with a wet clutch.in the engine case.
These additives let the clutch slip at max power and/or acceleration.
Cars have a dry clutch seperated form the crank case (engine oil) so can use anti-friction aditives.

Yes I guess its the oil that cause my clutch slipping so muuuuch and not the clutch. Do you think that I ruin the clutch with that oil? I’ve don’t let the clutch slip  when it was happen!!

Ehhhhhh you probably didn't ruin the clutch but it does heat it up a lot because it's slipping.
It really depends on how much you slipped your clutch.

I would change your oil and filter.

Just in case anyone who is curious. Here's the current monthly list of JASO oils.
Shell has not been on the list but that doesn't mean they aren't JASO.
Which means the list may be incomplete and you should do your own research in addition.

www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV_LIST.pdf

And here's more info on the differences between JASO MA, JASO MA1, JASO MA2, JASO MB

www.mototribology.com/articles/jaso-explained-part-1
 

Thank youu man!! For my oil light, it is ON even the bike is not running. So today I take it for a 30km run and the engine is running like a new one. My conclusion is that’s a electrical problem.. 

The light is supposed to be on when the bike isn't running and the key switch is on.
You have no oil pressure!
oh well

My conclusion is that’s a electrical problem.

Um, did you actually check anything?  The stuff mentioned?  It's kind of foolish to ride around with a glitchy oil light.  
The warning light should come on when the ignition switch is turned to ON. And it should stay ON until you start the engine.

Kind of related and your oil light problem could be this simple.  My neutral switch was glitchy, so I removed the engine/sprocket cover and cleaned up the connection and crimped the terminal a little for a tighter fit. problem solved. 

 

It's really easy to check and potentially catastrophic if you dont.

 

Maxbou92 wrote:

Thank youu man!! For my oil light, it is ON even the bike is not running. So today I take it for a 30km run and the engine is running like a new one. My conclusion is that’s a electrical problem.. 

30km with unknown oil pressure !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I guess that's one way to establish the problem is electrical   oil pressure check would have been preferable to "blowing the crank" which would have established a mechanical fault 

Stop it! You guys are scaring me. I ride around all the time on my kz305 that dosn't have an oil light. Maybe because it was a cheap bike, Kawasaki didn't want to spend the bucks.

My 350 Honda had a bolt on the head to test oil pressure. No oil filter just a spinning drum to catch particles. You had to clean it each oil change. Beyond that it was a great bike. 
 

I have clean the neutral switch near front sprocket. And light is still on.. I just make a ride of 100km again!! Like a brand new!! Fucking oil light !! I will check the pressure oil switch tonight. Bad wire?! Thank youuu everyone I appreciate 

I have clean the neutral switch near front sprocket. And light is still on... 

Oops. We seem to have a communications problem.

The neutral light has nothing to do with the oil light.

Fixing my neutral switch electrical connection was easy >> I was saying maybe fixing your oil switch electrical connection might be easy too. You need to start checking stuff. I would check the oil switch first >> first thing is to make sure the electrical connection is good >> very easy to check.