TOPIC:

After about 600 miles since my little incident and subsequent rebuild, the bike began to leak oil around the head gasket sides, a weep around the valve cover. While a weep does not bother me, when I start to leave drips in my driveway and wherever else I park, it needs to be addressed. It was also leaking bad enough to spray some down the side of the bike, nothing crazy but the side covers have a healthy coat of oil. I did use gasket maker as the service manual stated when installing the head gasket on the first rebuild. Double checked the head nuts we’re torqued properly and that was not my issue. What sealant do you all use when installing a head gasket? Do I need to replace the O-rings around the restrictor on the sides of the barrels? Since I have the head off for the second time, I think I will remove the emissions properly with a tap and a set screw, what size do those need to be? What’s the best way to remove the old vesrah gasket that has embedded itself in the valve cover? I mean it’s REALLY in there. 

I've never had a gasket leak over maybe a dozen installations.  At most I'll use a bit of Permatex Copper spray on the head gasket.  Nothing on the base gasket.  I won't usually replace O rings that are pliable and show no rips or tears.  Otherwise yes.  

You may want to check your head and top of cylinders to ensure they are flat.

Elfarm did you re-torque the head after running it up to temperature, missing this step will almost always result in leaks (My Harris was a pig to get the cam cover off so I missed this step out, after a few hundred miles it blew a piece of gasket out the side big enough to have blue flames shooting out !!)

Well wookie, I think you found my issue. I did not know the head had to be retorqued after a heat cycle. What gasket sealer is best to use on the side of the head gasket? It’s just what the head calls for in the manual. Also the tap size to remove the emissions via set screws.

To be honest I have never used sealer on any head-gasket so I will bow to the experience of others. Not sure what "set screws" you are referring to 

The head gasket should not have any sealant. What manual are you referring to? Yes, head nut torque should be checked after one heat cycle and again at about 500 miles.

The cam cover gasket should not be stuck after only 600 miles. Carefully scraping with a plastic scraper should get it off. Whatever you use, be very careful to not nick the soft aluminum gasket surface. When you get the new gasket, smear a very light coat of grease on both sides before installing it. That will make later removal for service much easier, and you may be able to reuse the gasket a time or two.

Wookie, the set screws (grub screws) he refers to are to plug the clean air ports. Honestly, I do not remember what size is needed. Just measure the port, and you will have the minor diameter, or take the head to a machine shop. Either way, it is a good idea to apply a little permanent thread lock to each screw before installing them.

Wookie, the set screws (grub screws) he refers to are to plug the clean air ports. Honestly, I do not remember what size is needed. Just measure the port, and you will have the minor diameter, or take the head to a machine shop. Either way, it is a good idea to apply a little permanent thread lock to each screw before installing them.

Is this an emission thing for the US market ?

I am using the KZ750 service manual. Here are pictures showing where it says to apply gasket maker to the head gasket, and the front cover of the book. 
I do still need some gasket makers as the cam end covers have been removed in my attempts to clean the gunk off of the valve cover due to the old gasket.  
I purchased a new valve cover gasket for $13 off eBay because mine broke in a particularly weak spot. 
I have measured the size of the ports and it seems they are a 10mm, does this sound right to you all? I do have high heat thread locker on my list of stuff to buy today. Thank you 

wrote:

Wookie, the set screws (grub screws) he refers to are to plug the clean air ports. Honestly, I do not remember what size is needed. Just measure the port, and you will have the minor diameter, or take the head to a machine shop. Either way, it is a good idea to apply a little permanent thread lock to each screw before installing them.

Is this an emission thing for the US market ?

Yes. The system introduces filtered air from the air box into each exhaust port. The marketing folks say the extra oxygen helps ignite any unturned fuel. My somewhat suspicious mind thinks it more likely that the added air dilutes the exhaust gasses in order to make the pipe sniffing devices happy.

elfarm98648,

My apologies. I was not aware that the 750 has that requirement. Copper Coat is a good choice. Hylomar makes excellent gasket sealing products, too.
If the holes are 10mm, then 12mm screw should do the trick.

If you're taking the head off, I'd also use new o-rings very lightly coated in your sealant of choice around the oil restrictors on the ends. I didn't use any on the corners of the head gasket but I did use some at the center near the cam chain...not sure which manual specifically I got that from though. 

Ghost, do you have a part number for those O rings, I asked earlier but it got swallowed in the other questions I had asked.