Master link cam chain replacement process

There's this Bikeservice one for hyvochains.
BIKESERVICE BS3550 Cam Chain Breaker and Riveting Tool Kit | eBay
Not personally used this one myself though.

wrote:

There's this Bikeservice one for hyvochains.
BIKESERVICE BS3550 Cam Chain Breaker and Riveting Tool Kit | eBay
Not personally used this one myself though.

Here is a video of it in action:  

Does this really form the the end of the pin when you press in the pin?  I don't see anything that looks like a die that would form/mushroom the end of the pin.  And they don't show the shape of the pin when it's finished.  

This tool was highly recommended as capable for use in a professional shop environment:

www.24mx.com/motocross-accessories/tools...pdp-brand-cross-sale

The above supplier does NOT deliver to the USA, so it's unavailable for the most part.  

A UK ebay $eller has a listing for it, but holly KAW!

Kit instructions:    www.biketeile-service.de/media/attachmen...f/mk-1588_manual.pdf

wrote:

wrote:

There's this Bikeservice one for hyvochains.
BIKESERVICE BS3550 Cam Chain Breaker and Riveting Tool Kit | eBay
Not personally used this one myself though.

Does this really form the the end of the pin when you press in the pin?  I don't see anything that looks like a die that would form/mushroom the end of the pin.  And they don't show the shape of the pin when it's finished.  

Good eye!  Me thinks a bit more stress application is required than suggested in that product video.  Imagine doing all that squeezing between the frame and cylinder head.    

I think there is much left out of the video on the chain tool.  The amount of effort to remove the link isn't shown nor is the effort to install the new link.  There should be a close up picture of the finished link, but there isn't one.  It leaves me wondering what is this tool really like to use and what does the finished link really look like.  My guess is that there is a lot more grunt work to this then they are showing.

Rick H.

One concern I have is whether the open chain comes that way from the factory. Otherwise a continuous chain would have to be opened prior to sale, or by the end user.

Maybe a smart move to grind the compressed head off each pin prior to pushing it out through the plates. Seems like forcing the factory peened head through without that step would distort the precise hole bores of the inside plates which will be utilized again with the new pins.

One thing to keep in mind. This might be ok for power transmission applications. Machine motors and drives, much slower and on a service/inspection schedule. Might not be intended for a sealed up engine running mostly at higher rpm.

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One thing to keep in mind. This might be ok for power transmission applications. Machine motors and drives, much slower and on a service/inspection schedule. Might not be intended for a sealed up engine running mostly at higher rpm.

I suppose if a new timing chain breaks, that link without doubt will be where it happens. But if something else ever jams like a valve into it's piston or some bolt coming loose, then the concert will end no matter.

All great thoughts and leads. Thanks. I've been speaking with someone outside of the forum as well who said that you could use a tool like the one Z1 sells, or like the BikeService one. The guy says he has done this before with hyvo chains and the masterlink relies largely on the tension of the pins pressed into the holes in the plates by the tool. He said the chain doesn't see much side-to-side action, so there isn't a lot trying to work them apart. To make sure the thing doesn't fall apart, he said he puts a bit of silver solder at the end of the master link pins, to make sure they can't come apart.

How does this strike you all?

Of all the things I might try this isn't one of them. I broke a cam chain once and I would never want it happening again. 
Steve

I'm kind of thinking I'm going to abandon this idea. I think I'll still experiment on an old chain, just to see how hard this might be to do, but I'm not sure I could ever trust it at 90 miles per hour. While it seems to be unknown whether this can be successfully done with a hyvo chain, it is definitely known that a busted cam chain may result in sudden death.

All that said: if anyone has ever done this with a hyvo cam chain in a "J"-type motor, please let us know. I really want to know if anyone has pulled this off and lived to tell the tale.

I have one more question for you all. Of course, I'd like to think I'm wrong and this might be something other than the timing chain. It sounds like a top end clattering. Seems to be coming, vaguely, from under the valve cover. Could it be the valves? When I first got the bike, all the valves were very lose-- with most of the exhaust valves at more than 0.15 mm (the spec range is 0.05 to 0.15mm). So, I thought it was the valves.

I have since tightened all the valves, intake and exhaust, within the range of 0.08 to 0.10. To my ears, the noise hasn't changed. In your experience, could this range of clearance produce a disconcerting clattering noise?

If your idle speed is set too low the engine will rattle.  Is your idle speed set around 1000 - 1050 rpm?  Ed