Cylinder Head Removal - first time and could use some guidance

Yeah I’m pretty sure those are the ones I have. They say up on one side 

If you have the correct ones there should be no need to trim them.  They should fit on the flat perfectly.  I go back to my question about whether you have the front and back rollers mixed up.  If you look at them carefully and look at your head you will see that one roller fits into the cutout in the head but the other one won't because there is no indent in the head.  I can't remember if it's the front or back one, but one fits entirely into the cylinders and the head sits on top of it.  The other sits partly into the cylinders and extends up into the head.

I’m 100% sure it’s the right one as I’ve never removed the other one. Plus it has the chain tensioner “plate” on the bottom wheel. I may have just been sent the wrong rubber dampers,  although it seems the ones I’m replacing are the bigger of the two per that diagram. They DEFINITELY don’t fit flush with the gasket surface. When I put the head back on the posts it was slightly off the surface and would rock back and forth a little until I tightened things down and it compressed the rubber dampers.

The assembly should sit higher than the top of the cylinders but there should be an indentation in the head to allow the head to sit flat on the cylinder surface.

I'm guessing you have the large ones if you had to trim them.

I think I got the wrong part. I trimmed it quite a bit and it fit much better. There's a tiny bit of friction on the sprocket but nothing bad and it sat much better on the block.

I like to think of such things as "self-clearancing". 

Ok more of me asking questions. I've got the head back on and installed the camshafts/chain/sprockets/etc. I installed the cam chain tensioner and, per the manual, rotated the crankshaft a full cycle to check the timing marks. Now the 1-4 T and the TDC marks on the camshaft sprockets are a fraction off. How much wiggle room is considered ok here? Or does it need to be absolutely precise? 

There is always a bit off wear in the cam chain sprockets and in the chain itself.  If you can rotate the engine without any obstruction you are probably good to go.  A degree or two off the TDC mark will affect your timing slightly.

Yeah it seems to rotate really easily. I have no issue adjusting the timing but I'd rather not put it all back together and ruin something trying to get it started! Thanks for the tip

After installing the cams and the tensioner I usually turn the engine over carefully to ensure the valves aren't striking a piston.  If not, it's a good sign that you have correctly set the timing chain.

Yeah I just spun it around by hand a few times and didn’t notice any impacts or sounds. Here’s how far we’re talking with the camshaft sprocket marks exactly parallel to the surface of the head. 

 

How far does 1 tooth move the mark (sometimes if everything is lined up perfectly as you tension the chain the cams rotate) which can leave you a tooth out