kz650 1978 Q/A

wrote:

1. Tensioner question. One from 78, one from 79. Both seem to be in good condition. Should I favor one over other?

2. Seals question. For shift rod Do the installed same orientation, face out? Or they installed back to back? 

 

#1 use the tensioer with the stronger spring. Maybe a manual tensioner mod would be an option..
#2 do install the seal in the same orientation and use a good permanent grease on the shaft agianst wear, moisture and corrosion.

wrote:

#1 use the tensioer with the stronger spring. Maybe a manual tensioner mod would be an option..
#2 do install the seal in the same orientation and use a good permanent grease on the shaft agianst wear, moisture and corrosion.

For #1 I'd rather not spend money yet if not needed. Is there issue with stock tensioner(s)? Bike is stock, not for racing.

For #2. What was an idea for 2 seals? You propose I do it like pictured (dang I didn't pay attention when disassembled). But to me sounds like #2 should be reversed. This way I can pack it with grease inside. No?

 

wrote:

wrote:

#1 use the tensioer with the stronger spring. Maybe a manual tensioner mod would be an option..
#2 do install the seal in the same orientation and use a good permanent grease on the shaft agianst wear, moisture and corrosion.

For #1 I'd rather not spend money yet if not needed. Is there issue with stock tensioner(s)? Bike is stock, not for racing.

For #2. What was an idea for 2 seals? You propose I do it like pictured (dang I didn't pay attention when disassembled). But to me sounds like #2 should be reversed. This way I can pack it with grease inside. No?

 

#1 you don´t need to spend money for the manual tensioner mod only some work to do by your self, pics follows...
#2 as you sketch up, position the seal like that to keep the grease into the shaft bore of the clutch case.

 

wrote:

wrote:

wrote:

#1 use the tensioer with the stronger spring. Maybe a manual tensioner mod would be an option..
#2 do install the seal in the same orientation and use a good permanent grease on the shaft agianst wear, moisture and corrosion.

For #1 I'd rather not spend money yet if not needed. Is there issue with stock tensioner(s)? Bike is stock, not for racing.

For #2. What was an idea for 2 seals? You propose I do it like pictured (dang I didn't pay attention when disassembled). But to me sounds like #2 should be reversed. This way I can pack it with grease inside. No?

 

#1 you don´t need to spend money for the manual tensioner mod only some work to do by your self, pics follows...
#2 as you sketch up, position the seal like that to keep the grease into the shaft bore of the clutch case.

 

Problem is - "INSIDE" is not sealed. It's a void where sprocket/etc is. To me makes sense to keep grease between seals. 

wrote:

wrote:

wrote:

wrote:

#1 use the tensioer with the stronger spring. Maybe a manual tensioner mod would be an option..
#2 do install the seal in the same orientation and use a good permanent grease on the shaft agianst wear, moisture and corrosion.

For #1 I'd rather not spend money yet if not needed. Is there issue with stock tensioner(s)? Bike is stock, not for racing.

For #2. What was an idea for 2 seals? You propose I do it like pictured (dang I didn't pay attention when disassembled). But to me sounds like #2 should be reversed. This way I can pack it with grease inside. No?


 

#1 you don´t need to spend money for the manual tensioner mod only some work to do by your self, pics follows...
#2 as you sketch up, position the seal like that to keep the grease into the shaft bore of the clutch case.

 

Problem is - "INSIDE" is not sealed. It's a void where sprocket/etc is. To me makes sense to keep grease between seals. 

Yes, you are right but KHI engineers  didn´t thought like you and me but you can put a rubber boot or hose on the shaft to seal the inside....

If you decide on the 78 tensioner get a new nos spring on ebay for it............ BIG diff in tension.

wrote:

If you decide on the 78 tensioner get a new nos spring on ebay for it............ BIG diff in tension.

Ebay got springs for both newer and older.

Any collective wisdom on which tensioner better? If they made a change - must be better if newer?

I have seen people have drilled whole in end off the tensioner and made some threads and used a long bolt to adjust with.

mod it to semi manual?