TOPIC:

JR wrote: Plastic cap.

Are they Keihin carbs ? And is that cap over the pilot jet? Is it a white or creamy coloured plastic cap with an o ring on one end?

If so then then it is very necessary. Bike will run like crsp or not at all without it.

If not as described above then please disregard this post.

Yes it is Keihin carbs but it looks like its supposed to be taken off, it is a clear plastic sort of , but im almost certain it should be removed because the spring and o-ring etc wouldnt fit if not

goatfarming wrote: I got slightly unsure about which o-rin to use at the end of the pilot screw the tiny one or the big one ?

The skinny one is my guess. It looks too big in the photo but it's hard to tell. I'm not a fan of aftermarket "carb kits" because you never know if the parts will fit. The fat one looks like it's for the drain plug screw.

The plastic cap I referred to goes inside the carb on the end of the pilot jet. It is number 11012 in the diagram I linked to. As mentioned above, the bike will run like pookie, or not at all, without them in place with a well-sealing oring.

Ok guys! So i have been at it for another week. After being now slightly bald from hair pulling and teeth grinding coupled with a 2x increase nicotine and caffeine usage i have concluded with this - i think the cam timing is now correct. Both one tooth advanced and «level» yields the same results carb farting - back fire through the left carb, i have taken them apart and cleaned for the 3 time and everything looks good but then it hit me, i changed the float spring things - dont know the exact name - and i think i have a overfilling or need to synch this with the clear tube method.

Now i have searched high and low for the original post on this , but there is a bunch of new ones that has been made , and from searching online a bunch it seems like you will not be able to adjust the idle and pilot jet without this being done right.

so tomorrow im gonna take the carbs off and make a stand and do this and hopefully by this time next week my hair has regrown and i can Hopefully cut down on the caffeine and nicotine and Get some shut eye, so bare with me here !

Is ther anyone that has done this before or can link me the guide to either the original thread that still has pictures etc attached or to someone preferably that had done this with my carbs krigen carbs that has same nipple for both overflow and drain on the bowl.


Or better yet anyone that feel the urge to explain to me how i go about doing this, do i just put a tube - open up the nipple drain and fill the bowls up - making sure the clear tube is not twisted etc. And make a mark on the tube and use the same tube for both or do i make two. How long do they need to be ? What is the height im aiming for i’ve Read right on the Edge of the float bowl top where the gasket is level with that + - 2 mm ?

For anyone that takes the time to answer i salute you all the way from Norway. Keep in mind we have only one month of riding weather out of every year basically so any and all help is appreciated:cheer:

www.kzrider.com/jdownloads/General/Gener...clear_tube_combo.jpg

I just did it last week. I found it easier to remove the carbs, and do it at my workbench., since any changes involves removing the float bowls.

If the floats won't set dry, they surely will not set wet.


Make sure they are level to let the floats work properly.


Set your tank on a shelf just above the carbs at approximately the same height as it would be in relationship to the carbs when mounted on the bike.


My service manual shows a procedure close to this method, except they look to be doing it on the bike.