Doing cam timing

VTEC wrote: But I thought zero lash wasn't necessary with lobe center?

No, not really but it does eliminate any false movement of the bucket/shim like you have experienced and stops any sudden jump on the dial indicator as the cam contacts the shim..
I use Loctite 243 on the bolts which is the medium strength and have had no problems with it.

How do you adjust valves Zed? Kawi method?

Last couple of times I did it the way every Honda car engine known to man is done. Intake and exhaust of cylinder at TDC of compression stroke. Compared with the Kawi method it does produce about a .002" difference. I forget tight or loose.

First time I'm gonna go on the loose side, about .007", I know they're gonna tighten up.

I have the lobe pointing directly away from the shim , this ensures that you are on the base circle.
Many cams have the ramp starting early and not at 180 degrees on the diameter of the cam so going by the book can give very false readings..
I also run the lash at the top end of 0.15mm and if it's a choice between 0.12mm or 0.17mm I go 0.17mm.
A lot of race cams even specify up to 0.20mm ( 7.8 thou) clearance.

I compared the clearance at TDC and the lobe straight up and they are identical.

Going on 35 years in a new car dealer, and degreeing this bitch has got to be the most tedious job ever.

Cam degreeing can be time consuming, but it is actually quite rewarding when you get the desired results. Setting it up takes the longest. Set it, red-thread lock the bolts, and almost forget it. Having a plate made for this, would be far better than the locking snake type arm, with the vice grip tool, I have been using.


Glad you got the numbers you wanted.

CoreyClough wrote: Cam degreeing can be time consuming, but it is actually quite rewarding when you get the desired results. Setting it up takes the longest. Set it, red-thread lock the bolts, and almost forget it. Having a plate made for this, would be far better than the locking snake type arm, with the vice grip tool, I have been using.


Glad you got the numbers you wanted.

Thanks. Never easy to get it right.

While adjusting valve clearance I looked at all scenarios. Checking intake and exhaust at TDC of that cylinder, or with lobe straight up from the bucket gives the same readings. But the Kawi method, TDC #1 check exhaust #1 and #2 gives a .001" tighter clearance due to cam position, spring tension and cam bearing clearance. So if you think about it, this is true clearance measuring at the tightest point.

Think I'm gonna stick with the Kawi method, got all at .006" or .007". And I know the clearances always get tighter with miles.

And, or course, 3 of the cam cover bolts pulled out the treads in the head. And I noticed the bolt kit I got only gives 50mm 6mm bolts for the cover's outer 4 bolts at the came plugs. They're supposed to be 52mm, and the few threads difference can be do or die on these heads.

I have heli-coiled most of my cam cap threads, as I highly recommend doing this to all of them,when the head is off, as it is so much easier.

Hey. Never heard about and I can't find it in Kawasaki parts. But I have a horseshoe alignment shim at my left upper engine mount. Anybody else?

Correction: I see it in parts. They call it a u formed washer.