Doing cam timing

hardrockminer wrote: Did you check the chain to see if it was in spec?

The important point is to get the exhaust cam set on the correct tooth according to the mark, and to then set the intake cam on the 28 mark. As I rough guide I would note that when properly installed the #4 lobe on exhaust and intake cams will point towards each other.

When you set the cams in you should have noticed a little more slack than normal because you shaved the head.

After I set the cams , I put the top guide in (without loctite) and install the tensioner on the back before rotating. Once rotated I will remove the top guide bolts one at a time and loctite.

Use the kicker to rotate. but don't push any harder than you need to in order to get the crank to rotate If you use the nut on the points side you risk breaking the timing pin installed in the end of the crank. Don't ask how I know.

This is a 'J' type engine with HYVO chain and no kickstart not the early engine so the above is not really relevent but despite that and no offence intended i'm pretty sure VTEC has all that nailed.

Have to ask, how do you want to do the cam timing to the specs???
I have some HYVO chain sprockets that have slotted holes to adjust the cam timing.
They come with my "J" head i bought 15 years ago.

Scirocco wrote: Have to ask, how do you want to do the cam timing to the specs???
I have some HYVO chain sprockets that have slotted holes to adjust the cam timing.
They come with my "J" head i bought 15 years ago.

Not sure what you mean? And those sprockets are for aftermarket J cams (or OEM KZ), OEM J are two bolt.

Yes my fault, so you need a two bolt 30 tooth sprocket to adjust your cam timing, is it right?

Scirocco wrote: Yes my fault, so you need a two bolt 30 tooth sprocket to adjust your cam timing, is it right?

Some confusion here???
VTEC already has slotted APE three bolt Hyvo adaptor sprockets fitted.

zed1015 wrote:

Scirocco wrote: Yes my fault, so you need a two bolt 30 tooth sprocket to adjust your cam timing, is it right?

Some confusion here???
VTEC already has slotted APE three bolt Hyvo adaptor sprockets fitted.

I didn't realize Scirocco thought I needed sprockets. And don't forget mine are counter-bored to align with the crank sprocket.

When I showed the guys at APE the discrepancy between OEM and aftermarket J cams (actually KZ cams) they gave me another option.

If I sent them a pair of OEM sprockets and cams they would put slots in the 2 bolt sprockets, and Web Cam would weld and grind the cams to 410 specs.

I didn't go that far, but it might be a good option for others. This would keep the sprockets inline with the crank, all lobes inline with the buckets, and if you have a tach cable the drive gear will lineup with the driven gear.

Not sure if there's any downside to welding on lobes as compared to the correct original casting.

Here's a pretty cool video of the process:

Nothing wrong with hard welding and re-grinding.
It's been done for years to stock cams before aftermarket cores were available.

zed1015 wrote: Nothing wrong with hard welding and re-grinding.
It's been done for years to stock cams before aftermarket cores were available.

If I had it to do over I probably would have gone that route. But by the time I got all the information I was too deep, and didn't want to add another delay. Just had to fix the misaligned sprockets.

Thanks for discussing this subject guy's. Three years and 18K + miles later, I am reassured that 84 ZX1100 cams (and sprockets) was the best choice for me.

OK. Getting back to degreeing today.

I haven't asked if there are any suggestions about using numbers other than what's on the card. 107.5 intake/108.5 exhaust. I'm assuming these are the best numbers suggested for street riding.

I haven't tried those particular cams but i would go by the figures provided and see how it goes.
You need a baseline for any future tweaking anyway, the manufacturers settings have to be as good a place to start as any and i'm pretty sure they know what they are doing.
You can always move the centres if you need a bit more bottom or top.