Clutch not Disengaging after Sprocket Change

  • Scirocco
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17 Sep 2017 13:28 #771099 by Scirocco
Replied by Scirocco on topic Clutch not Disengaging after Sprocket Change
It is not a o-ring it is a seal

Transmission Cover



www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-kz1000k1-ltd-1981...t/61977.html#results


part# 92049B

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  • SWest
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17 Sep 2017 13:39 #771102 by SWest
I didn't say it was a O ring, maybe part of the seal. On the big fours the O ring is not needed.
Steve

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17 Sep 2017 13:59 #771104 by Scirocco
Replied by Scirocco on topic Clutch not Disengaging after Sprocket Change
Yes Steve, i know you described it right.
A part of the seal can be detached and look like an o-ring

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17 Sep 2017 14:12 - 17 Sep 2017 14:16 #771106 by Dr. Gamma
Replied by Dr. Gamma on topic Clutch not Disengaging after Sprocket Change
Yes there is an O-ring in that trans bushing. Its not easy to find on the parts diagrams!!!

The part number for that O-ring is 670B1507.

Remember the transmission shafts are pressurized with oil. So you do need that O-ring in that trans bushing.

1972 H2 750 Cafe Racer built in 1974.
1976 KH400 Production Road Racer.
1979 Kz1000 MK. II Old AMA/WERA Superbike.
1986 RG500G 2 stroke terror.
1986 GSXR750RG The one with the clutch that rattles!

Up in the hills near Prescott, Az.
Last edit: 17 Sep 2017 14:16 by Dr. Gamma. Reason: added more info.
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17 Sep 2017 15:10 - 17 Sep 2017 15:15 #771107 by Scirocco
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17 Sep 2017 18:53 #771119 by Zachgrove1
Replied by Zachgrove1 on topic Clutch not Disengaging after Sprocket Change
The O-Ring Part # 670B1507 does make sense - I was able to locate the mystical O-Ring I thought I saw, and it has an 8mm outer diameter, the same as the Kawasaki part, and it did have a tear in it, which would make sense as to why it is no longer in the bike. I didn't get a chance to tear the bike apart today to make sure that was it, but you guys sure sound like were on the right track.

I didn't even think to check out the parts diagram of the transmission, I was too focused on the clutch.

Would I still replace this part from the left (Sprocket) side of the bike through the sprocket cover, removing the sprocket and transmission cover? Could this be as simple as popping a new part in from the sprocket side, or do I have to disassemble the transmission to install the new ring from the right (clutch cover) side?

Maybe a better question is what is the best way to install a new ring?

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17 Sep 2017 20:12 #771128 by Daftrusty
Replied by Daftrusty on topic Clutch not Disengaging after Sprocket Change
The o-ring can easily be slipped into the groove in the pushrod guide once you remove the transmission cover.
Dr. Gamma is right, the transmission shaft is pressurized with oil to lube the pushrod, throw out ball bearing and the pressure plate plunger. So if that o-ring is gone, the oil pressure is gone and it "could" lead to some serious damage.
Since you will have to remove the transmission cover anyway, that is the perfect time to replace the three oil seals that are pressed into the cover. One of them is surely causing the oil leak when the bike is leaned on the kick stand. Oil completely fills the area behind the trans cover, so those seals are the only thing between that oil and your garage floor.

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18 Sep 2017 13:35 #771174 by Zachgrove1
Replied by Zachgrove1 on topic Clutch not Disengaging after Sprocket Change
Absolutely, good call! They are more than likely the original 36 year old seals that came with the bike - ordered all the seals and the o ring this morning from partzilla, and should have them by the end of the week.

This may be a stupid question, however before removing the transmission cover, do I drain the oil from the bike?

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18 Sep 2017 14:02 - 18 Sep 2017 14:04 #771175 by Scirocco
Replied by Scirocco on topic Clutch not Disengaging after Sprocket Change
No need to drain the oil.
Lean the bike to the right side with a wood block under the frame as temporary side stand.
Last edit: 18 Sep 2017 14:04 by Scirocco.
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18 Sep 2017 16:30 #771180 by Dr. Gamma
Replied by Dr. Gamma on topic Clutch not Disengaging after Sprocket Change

Zachgrove1 wrote: Absolutely, good call! They are more than likely the original 36 year old seals that came with the bike - ordered all the seals and the o ring this morning from partzilla, and should have them by the end of the week.

This may be a stupid question, however before removing the transmission cover, do I drain the oil from the bike?


Hope you ordered a new gasket for that cover too??? I would not trust the old gasket myself.

Clean all the crud off the shifter shaft, the clutch rod, and the collar on output shaft before you go to slide the cover back on. If you don't good chance you will rip your fancy new seals!! I grease the hell out of the splines on the shifter shaft, and the collar on the output shaft before I go to slide the cover back on motor. Been doing it that way since 1974, and I have never hurt a seal!!! After you get the cover on and all the screws tighen, then grease up the end of clutch rod and slide it through your new seal. Then you should be ready to put the rest of covers back on.

1972 H2 750 Cafe Racer built in 1974.
1976 KH400 Production Road Racer.
1979 Kz1000 MK. II Old AMA/WERA Superbike.
1986 RG500G 2 stroke terror.
1986 GSXR750RG The one with the clutch that rattles!

Up in the hills near Prescott, Az.

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18 Sep 2017 17:46 #771188 by SWest
This is an original Z1 tranny. I stand corrected. There is a space in between the bearing race and the cover though, so I doubt oil pressure leakage would be an issue.:whistle:
Steve

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21 Sep 2017 18:36 #771406 by Zachgrove1
Replied by Zachgrove1 on topic Clutch not Disengaging after Sprocket Change
I'll be replacing all the seals and the gasket as well. Any tips on getting the transmission cover off after removing all the hardware? Mine seems to be really stuck on hard, and I don't want to hit it too hard as the Clymer manual states that there are locating dowls holding it on. Is my best bet to wiggle a screw driver in and around the cover to free it?

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