KZ900 Top Idler Wear Help

The center roller is at the base gasket. Depending on what the adjuster roller looks like will tell you the condition of the center roller. They all should be changed at the same time. Also the valve guide seals. The barrels have to come off. How many miles on the bike?
Steve

Take my advice with a grain of salt as most on here know 10 times more than I ever will but at 30,000 miles my stuff on my 650 was still in really good shape. I do ride 95% in cooler weather and change the oil too often so I'm sure that helped too. I just replaced the large rubber roller and got the Liska for the tensioner. Didn't want to split the case to replace the chain so I left it too. Just seems like a lot of work and cash ......now you will need all new gaskets, a valve job rings and a hone or more etc etc.......

I only ride a thousand to 1,200 miles a year too and I'll be lucky if I can swing my leg over it in another 5-6 years so that was a factor too ..... if I planned on putting 5 or more thousand miles on a year for the next ten plus well who knows what I would a done.

I appreciate the input. I will likely be replacing all tensioner pieces that have any rubber/plastic as they are all the same age and condition. But i definitely won't be tearing it down to replace the chain because I don't have the money for valve seals, rings etc right now. The bike was not a smoking hulk of scrap when it was running, just severely out of tune carbs and stupid electrical issues. Doesn't mean I can't do it later

I gathered the parts little by little until I had all I needed. If the adjuster still works you still have time. Maybe get the idler first and the blocks that come for it. Not everyone has the $$ to do it all at once. Why did you pull the cams to adjust the valves?
Steve

With the valve cover off i noticed the intake cam was off by one pin. Not sure if it had already been like that or if i had done it myself turning the engine backwards to test the starter clutch (i was having issues with the starter that turned out to be the starter itself). I was also checking the shim sizes and didn't have the tool to pull them without cam removal. I had no idea what a pain in the ass it is to reinstall the cams at proper timing.

Any recommendations for head/base gaskets? Will I need to replace studs and bolts?

If it skipped a tooth backing it up, you may be ready to replace all the rollers.
kzrider.com/forum/13-bike-related/599607...od-guys?limitstart=0
kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/605981-valve-...kz-1000?limitstart=0

Steve

Hey, just wanted to thank SWest and everyone else for their help and advice. Tore the engine down to the base gasket and replaced all parts of the idler system, Liska all around. Engine is back together and good, now having tuning troubles. I opened another thread if anyone wants to chime in with advice, here's the link:

kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/606677-kz900b-tuning-help