OEM Chain Tensioner vs Manual?

Kawasaki engineers designed the tensioner to have continuous spring tension against the rear chain guide. A manual tensioner does not do that.

By Dr. Gamma: ....The best way I found to adjust them was when I did my valve clearance check. With the spark plugs out, I would release the locking bolt, listen for the little click sound if the tensioner arm moved forward, then I would tighten the locking bolt. Then I would turn the motor over with the kick starter, and then grab the cam chain by the top tensioner and see if there was any slack part in the chain. I always run the cam chain through its whole length looking for any slack. If there was a loose spot, I would try to put it by the tensioner, and loosen the locking bolt again, and lock it again. Then I would turn the motor over, and make sure I could not find a loose spot in the cam chain. ....

Dr. Gamma, when you say you pull it by the tensioner, do you mean pull the rear tensioner?
Next question: since his bike has a Hy-Vo cam chain w slipper guides, Is that method going to work on his 82 1000-K2? Thanks.

I'm a big fan of APE products and always planned on there adj tensioner but was afraid of getting it too tight (will admit I wouldn't be doing it right if that happened). So I just bought a new spring and still use the stock one..... the new spring I picked up had a lot more tension comparing them by hand and would recommend one the next time you remove it.

The trouble was the O ring would get stuck in the threads. I cut it off, (not replaceable) and it was better but there is so little room under those big a^^ carbs, I can't get my bear paws in there to feel if it is too tight or not. Guessing by backing out 1/4 turn is not for me. The spring puts the proper tension on the chain roller and I can hear the difference with my Liska cam train rollers. Been looking around at the smaller four automatic adjusters after I got the 550. A very good system.
BTW, I'll be listing the APE one soon.
Steve

One the problems with the stock one's is as the chain and guide's wear the spring pushes it out almost to the next click
when turning it over by hand but when running it's a little loose and the plunger pulse's in and out that's what causes them to back off.
When I install one I do factory adjustment then take the bolt out and use a long skinny screwdriver to push on the plunger and give it just enough of a tap to get one more click.

zukdave wrote: One the problems with the stock one's is as the chain and guide's wear the spring pushes it out almost to the next click
when turning it over by hand but when running it's a little loose and the plunger pulse's in and out that's what causes them to back off.
When I install one I do factory adjustment then take the bolt out and use a long skinny screwdriver to push on the plunger and give it just enough of a tap to get one more click.

That may be a valid point on the older KZ tensioners which were not automatic. The J engine automatic tensioners also adjust while running. It's like a one-way check valve that extends the push rod outward to maintain the correct spring tension on the chain, but cannot back up. The older tensioners require the set bolt to be loosened periodically to adjust for chain and guide wear, just like a manual chain tensioner. But the advantage of the older OEM tensioners is that it still uses the spring tension to adjust, and the lock bolt prevents any chance of backup on decel. I don't understand why someone would replace that with a manual tensioner, which the only advantage is it can't backup on decel? And like SWest pointed out, get a new spring! 35 year old springs don't have nearly the tension of brand new.

Im running with a hd cam chain. where could i get a new tentioner spring?

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationAssuming you need the stock spring for a 1976 KZ900 or 1978 KZ1000-LTD there are many new old stock ones available on eBay. The part number is 92081-107, so use that for your search.

Here's where I found the part number:
www.powersportswarehouse.com/p/Kawasaki#...00-A4-1976/070078B-5

www.powersportswarehouse.com/p/Kawasaki#...00-B2-1978/070061B-5

Here are a couple eBay examples:

I changed-out the stock tensioner to the APE manual version several years ago, after discovering that the pressure that stock gizmo exerted was sufficient enough to severely distort the rear chain-guide, causing it to bulge-out at the sides and heat-set in that shape over time.
I've been inside this engine a few times since that APE was installed, and found minimal distortion if any. And the motor keeps on running...just as quiet as can be.

daveo wrote: I changed-out the stock tensioner to the APE manual version several years ago, after discovering that the pressure that stock gizmo exerted was sufficient enough to severely distort the rear chain-guide, causing it to bulge-out at the sides and heat-set in that shape over time.
I've been inside this engine a few times since that APE was installed, and found minimal distortion if any. And the motor keeps on running...just as quiet as can be.

I don't think the tensioner was the cause of your problem. A buddy of mine worked on the CHP bikes with J engines that reach 200k miles, and he never saw a problem with the OEM automatic tentioner.

This getin to be like an oil thread.


Here's how I see it based on the replies on a pretty much stock motor the factory tensioner is fine
build a hot motor and beat on it like I do my little bike I'm NOT trusting a stock one.

I guess that depends a lot on which stock tensioner the bike has. Kawasaki made a variety of changes, but not necessarily improvements, to the tensioners over the years. The early tensioners, like those that came stock on the 1977 KZ650, cannot slip since they must be set manually and then locked in position using a bolt and locknut. Some, if not most, of the later ones actually can slip since they are the "automatic" wedge type. I would be very hesitant to trust them having read several serious complaints on their reliability. Ed