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OEM Chain Tensioner vs Manual?
- VTEC
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Personally I thought the J engine automatic tensioner was a great idea. And I know a guy who worked on Police bikes breaking 200k miles and never saw a problem.
The theory is that OEM may possibly backup during extreme deceleration conditions (possibly jumping time). But is that realistic on a street build, or just an all-out race engine?
KZ1000-K2
ZRX1100
XR400R
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- Street Fighter LTD
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- TURBO, Its Better to be Blown than Injected
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I run one now on my turbo build and the system is bullet proof
Dave
Original owner 78 1000 LTD
Mr Turbo Race Kit, MTC 1075 Turbo pistons by PitStop Performance , Falicon Ultra Lite Super Crank, APE everything. Les Holt @ PDM's Billet Goodies . Frame by Chuck Kurzawa @ Logghe Chassis . Deep sump 5qt oil pan. RIP Bill Hahn
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- VTEC
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It's just with the manual tensioner there's no accurate adjustment. "Finger tight" then a 1/4 turn out is not accurate. If they had an inch/lb spec on the adjuster bolt while rotating the engine, that would work.
But I read about so many folks adjusting by instructions, too loose, and they have to kill the rattle by adjustment running.And with my carb setup, there's no way of adjusting it running.
KZ1000-K2
ZRX1100
XR400R
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve.
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- Dr. Gamma
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The best way I found to adjust them was when I did my valve clearance check. With the spark plugs out, I would release the locking bolt, listen for the little click sound if the tensioner arm moved forward, then I would tighten the locking bolt. Then I would turn the motor over with the kick starter, and then grab the cam chain by the top tensioner and see if there was any slack part in the chain. I always run the cam chain through its whole length looking for any slack. If there was a loose spot, I would try to put it by the tensioner, and loosen the locking bolt again, and lock it again. Then I would turn the motor over, and make sure I could not find a loose spot in the cam chain. I don't care what the shop manual tells you how to adjust the cam chain, but thats the way I have done it since back in 1974!!!
1972 H2 750 Cafe Racer built in 1974.
1976 KH400 Production Road Racer.
1979 Kz1000 MK. II Old AMA/WERA Superbike.
1986 RG500G 2 stroke terror.
1986 GSXR750RG The one with the clutch that rattles!
Up in the hills near Prescott, Az.
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- VTEC
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650ed wrote: Agree! The stock tensioner on my 1977 KZ650 is the old manual type. To adjust it you position the crankshaft at a certain position, loosen the tensioner bolt, and the spring in the tensioner adjusts the tension. You then tighten the tensioner bolt and lock nut, and at that point it is impossible for the tensioner rod to move in any direction. Ed
Yep, that was a great tensioner. The only issue would be a worn or broken spring not giving you the correct tension.
And if you notice there are high and low spots on the chain. So if you screw in an aftermarket tensioner bolt by hand on a high spot, then back off a 1/4 turn, you're not even close.
Has anyone ever heard of a J motor automatic tensioner failing and jumping time? I know it's bullet proof on a stock engine. The only relative difference on mine is 10.5:1 compression, .410 lift and heavier valve springs.
KZ1000-K2
ZRX1100
XR400R
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- VTEC
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I'm gonna drill out the back of the housing where the main slider rides. Tap it and install a bolt and lock nut. Once I have the tensioner installed, I'll turn the bolt in until it just touches the slider, then back it out a 1/4 turn., and lock it down. This way the automatic tensioner functions as as designed by Kawasaki, and the bolt is a failsafe preventing the slider from backing up enough to jump time under any condition.
KZ1000-K2
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XR400R
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- SWest
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- zukdave
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I charge $50.00 an hour for my time doing simple repairs so the time it takes to remove the stock one disassemble it
Set it up in the drill press so the holes straight, drill it, tap it, clean it, install bolt and reinstall on the bike then adjust it correctly.
I'm thinking around a $150.00 bucks would be fair for me to do a customer bike.
I could install an APE one for $50.00 plus parts and be done in under an hour.
1980 KZ650 F1
ZX750A1 motor.
Wiseco 810cc kit.
Zukiworks racing ported head.
VM 29 smooth bore's.
Dyna 2000 Ign. w/Dyna mini coil's
APE cylinder stud's and nut's.
APE valve spring's.
APE Track King clutch.
V/H KZ1000 sidewinder.
3.5x18 laced to a KZ1000 disk hub.
150/60/18 Shinko 006 Podium.
63" wheel base.
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- SWest
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Steve
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- zukdave
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SWest wrote: I don't trust the APE ones anymore. Too easy to overtighten.
Steve
Then your not doing it right.
I've got them in two motor's now and will be putting one in the connie motor in a few weeks.
1980 KZ650 F1
ZX750A1 motor.
Wiseco 810cc kit.
Zukiworks racing ported head.
VM 29 smooth bore's.
Dyna 2000 Ign. w/Dyna mini coil's
APE cylinder stud's and nut's.
APE valve spring's.
APE Track King clutch.
V/H KZ1000 sidewinder.
3.5x18 laced to a KZ1000 disk hub.
150/60/18 Shinko 006 Podium.
63" wheel base.
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