2002 KZ1000 Police Clutch problem

Folks, first off I'm sorry if you have answered this question a 1000 times. I tried using the search function and just ran out of patience.

I'm new to Kawasaki's and multis......but have been wrenching and riding since 1968.

I have a new to me 2002 KZ1000 police with less than 20,000 miles on the clock. I've been riding the wheels off of it and to tell you the truth, I LOVE it. BUT (you knew that was coming) the clutch has been dragging a bit on start up and I decided today to adjust the clutch to see if I could fix that.

First thing I noticed is that the adjustment at the lever was out quite a bit and so was the mid point adjustment. I have the factory manual and watched a couple of videos.....seemed easy enough. I followed the manual....bottomed out both adjusters, loosened the nut at the adjuster and then screw the adjuster clockwise until It stopped and backed off 1/4 turn. Went back to the adjusters to get the proper clearance at the leaver and once it was all set.....I tried the leaver and POP!!!!!!! something slipped/broke??????? Not sure what happened. The adjuster screw will not turn now....well, it might with some force but I didn't do that. Now there is there's a lot of slack in the cable.....it might be broken inside the cases. I noticed a frayed strand at the cable (at the leaver) so I know I need to replace the cable. I also know I have to go inside and see what's going on so I'm reading up on that. BUT (there's another one of those) I was hoping I could get some advise before I tear into it.

I'm thinking the cable broke......and I'm also thinking I the friction plates need to be replaced while I'm at it. What else while I'm in there? and....what if any special tools do I need?

Any and all suggestions or comments are welcome. I have tool and I'm not afraid to use them. Just like to do my homework before I get started.

Help a brother out please........thanks in advance, Gordon in NC

Yes, I'll reply to my own question.

Been doing some reading and there seems to be some confusion about which way to turn the adjustment screw. My manual says to turn it clockwise and I'm reading that some models you turn it counter clockwise.

2002 KZ1000 Police......which way do you turn the adjustment screw???????

I also read " ....snip...may cause the actuator assembly to pop apart" Well I'll tell ya that's sure what it felt like. Anybody know if it indeed does pop apart.....is it broken or can you put it back together?

I'm going in there tomorrow after work to see what ind of damage I've done and to maybe get the parts order right the first time around ( yea right, that would be a new one for me)

Still at the bottom of the learning curve, Gordon in NC

With regard to your clutch dragging a bit at start up. I'm assuming you mean during the first use of your clutch after starting. Clutch plates do stick. I assume this comes from the fact the clutch plates have hot oil on them when running and are then parked letting them cool and stick. My 89 KZ1000p7 does that a bit. I don't consider it a problem.

With regard to your clutch cable adjustment, you need to remove the front sprocket cover to see if the problem is there. It's simple to remove, just remove the starter cover, the shift lever, and four screws. This cover includes the clutch adjuster you mention above. From there you should be able to tell if the cable is broken. If it is not broken you messed up the adjustment somehow. The clutch adjuster on the front sprocket cover pushes a rod that opens and closes the clutch. Think of the clutch adjuster as a fancy throw out bearing on a clutch car. The rod fits into a hole on the clutch adjuster. Perhaps that rod was imply not in the hole. If so, when you finished your adjustment and activated the clutch, the rod fell into the hole making the snap noise. Now you have too much slack.

Common issue with the "easy pull" type actuators. Ball and ramp system. Open it up, put them in their places, put it back together and adjust the cable. That pop is the ball assembly going too far. No big deal. Some of clutch plates could be stuck together. If it sat for a long time, that is likely. Pull them out, oil them and put them back in. It will give you a chance to inspect them as well.
Steve

Thanks for the replys fellows.

I spent a good part of last night researching the problem and figure what I did wrong is to follow the manual and turned the adjuster in the wrong direction. I SHOULD have know better since there was way too much slack at the lever........but you fellows know how that learning curve is.

I'll get a chance to get in there tonight and take a look. I'm not going to own a bike I can't maintain so I need to learn all I can about this one because so far....it's a keeper.

New Clutch cable (with a spare) on the way and we'll see if there's anything else it needs.

I went ahead and ordered the clutch cover gaset because I agree, with a new to me bike it's a good thing to go ahead and check the wear on the friction plates and while I'm at it check the steel plates for flatness. One warped plain plate can cause a problem.

I love riding a LOT more than wrenching......but with owning several brands of vintage bikes I do a LOT more wrenching....ugh.

I'll get this...........................thank you fellows for your help. I'm sure there's going to be more questions as time goes by.

Take care and enjoy the spring........Gordon in NC

Gordon, the same thing happened to me on the road between Franklin and Highlands. I pulled the clutch in and it "popped" and went straight to the bar. I had adjusted the cable before the trip per the factory manual I had for KZ1000. It appears the factory is wrong (for the KZP anyway) about which way to turn the adjustor. I forgot which is which but I posted about it. The Clymer manual had it correct.

Edit: Here is my post from last Summer. www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/603388-kzp-clutch-goes-away

If it uses the ball and ramp you have to make sure the lever is in the correct position when you put the cover back on. If it isn't it will "pop" after using the lever a few times and you'll lose the clutch. It took me few hours to figure this out one sunny weekend and pushing my bike back to the house a block or 2 once or twice.

If you have fraying on the cable just replace it. Don't go through all that trouble then have to start over for the sake of a $20 part.

BTW. don't run your bike with the engine cover off. Oil pressure will push your clutch rod out and spill oil all over the ground.... Just sayin.

GPZGUY, sure sounds like what I did......but I got lucky and it over extended at home, thank goodness. Small world......I can' t tell you how many times I've ridden Hwy 64 between Franklin and Highlands. I worked in the area for three years and rode every chance I got. That area of North Carloina is amazing. It just so happens I'm headed up there on the 21st.......and will be on 64 from Morganton to Ga. Two Wheels of Suches for an XS Rally. Sad to see your bike on the roll back.....but your right a man has to pick his fights sometimes.
years.
GPZmod........thanks for the tip but.......(yea I'm full of those) what is the "correct" lever position????

I will change out the cable....been down that road to many times. (pun intended) and I always carry a spare AND a cable repair kit. I've been on two wheels since 1968 and have learned through my mstakes over the years.

Take care and thanks for the help.....enjoy the spring Gordon in NC

Sorry for the double post.....can't figure out how to delete the darn thing.

Gordon

For my 750, idk if it's the same for J blocks, there's a support rib right behind the lever. It's possible to positon the lever a bit above, a bit below or a pretty much parallel to the rib. You want to put it at the parallel position.

Out of those 3 most likely positions, guess how many tries it took my to figure it out.

NOPE! 4, ok, maybe 5. I ended up in the weeds on that learning curve. :silly:

You gota go slow with me here......lever??? which end of the cable are we talking about?

I have a feeling this will all become clear tonight when I have time totake it apart.

Gordon

This guy.



You'll see what I mean.

This may not have been in there correctly and someone managed to get it working by making all the screwy adjustments to the cable.