Top end tear down?

Hi, I have a 1977 KZ1000. It is sputtering at the midrange. The plugs were getting fouled, number 1 seemed like oil fouling and 2,3,4 were dry carbon fouling. Carbs were leaking and I measured float height (which was high) and and adjusted the tab on float so the level was 2mm below bowl gasket. The carbs were cleaned. They were also synced by a motorcycle mechanic,He also checked the valve clearance and said it was good. Compression is cyl 1- 127psi, cyl 2-120psi, Cyl 3-114.5psi and cyl 4- 116psi. New coils, battery, spark plugs,wires and caps. I set the pilot screws at 1 and a half turns out.I bought the bike 2 years ago and have only put maybe 400 miles on it.It has about 13000 miles on the bike. The guy that owned it before me brought the bike back from the dead 10 years ago. Prior to that it sat outside for 10 years neglected. I was thinking that it needs new valve seals, oil rings and rings and maybe valves laped, but I don`t know. Does anyone have any suggestions about what to do. I have never done a job like this before, but are willing to try. Just want to ride. Any help would be great. Can`t afford taking it to mechanic. At wits end.

It is highly likely that the valve stem seals are hard and leaking, but before you tear into the engine, a leak down test is in order. That will tell you whether the low numbers are from worn rings or burnt valves. Have the 400 miles been recent ones? I ask because an engine that has been unused for an extended period of time may have stuck rings that will free up with usage.

Valve guide seals, rollers, etc. In the mean time, you can run platinum plugs or I ran BP8ES plugs. They would foul every 400 miles. Keep up on the oil level. I was burning 1qt per tank. Look to spend around $1000 on the top end. Once done you won't regret it.
Steve

Will try a leak down test, Where do you get a tool for that? Yeah the 400 miles were in the last 2 years ( more time working on bike than riding) It sat all winter in my unheated garage. Thanks for reply

Would leaky valve seals cause the plug to foul(wet) reducing spark then causing sputtering?It is burning oil as well. What parts should I replace if i do a job like this?Thanks for the reply

Yes, I stated it above.
Steve

Defend132 wrote: Will try a leak down test, Where do you get a tool for that? Yeah the 400 miles were in the last 2 years ( more time working on bike than riding) It sat all winter in my unheated garage. Thanks for reply

Check out the free tool loaner programs at Auto Zone, Advance Auto, etc. to see which store can get the leak down test tool. You put down a deposit equal to the cost of the tool, use the tool for a couple days, and then return it for a full refund. I have used the Auto Zone program before for a tool I knew I would only use once in my lifetime. No muss / no fuss. Ed

Thanks for the advice Ed, I will look around and see what is available here in Canada.

Just want to ride

Your rings may be stuck if unused for a while, one pot on my 750 was badly down on compression, within a few hundred miles it fixed itself. Don't be scared to thrash it a bit, particularly on the downchanges. (engine braking gives the rings a workout as they are working in the opposite direction) You could even pour some carb cleaner into the pots.

I'd try to eliminate the possibility of an ignition misfire, new HT leads and non resistor caps plus a check over of the ignition primary wiring, also lube the advancer.

If the motor was smoking badly, oil fouled plugs and guzzling oil it may be terminal, but you might also be able to save it, even if just for a bit longer. Most of my bikes are 40-50k miles, these motors are very durable.

Thanks for the advice, I already put new HT leads and Non resitor caps on and new points and condensors. But I will try and set the points again because I know I was unsure of the procedure for setting them when I installed the new ones. :S Cheers

Defend132 wrote: Would leaky valve seals cause the plug to foul(wet) reducing spark then causing sputtering?It is burning oil as well. What parts should I replace if i do a job like this?Thanks for the reply

Yes, leaky valve stem seals will allow oil to be drawn around the intake valve stems into the intake port and combustion chamber.
The only parts you will likely need are the gaskets(head, cam cover), end plugs, and any o-rings your model may have. You nan look at the parts fische at Kawasaki.com or Partzilla. Be sure that the valve stem seals are made of Viton. Genuine Kawasaki gaskets are genearally best, as many aftermarket ones are junk.

You will also need a genuine Kawasaki factory service manual for your exact model, and some JIS screwdrivers and a hand impact driver will save much grief.