Found something terrifying in my oil pan

That's normal. Don't rotate the engine that way. You can buy Liska rollers for 1/2 the price of OEM at Z1E. The solid rubber roller and guide have to be OEM. They have them too. KZ Zone may have them too.
Steve

Had the same issue you are having with mine during an oil change. No permanent damage. Just installed the new front chain guide and some of the rubber bits / blocks. Rollers seemed okay on mine so I left them. Buttoned everything back up and and all was good. That was about 5,000 mile ago. Only thing to look out for is the torque specks on the cam cap bolts. The Haynes manual on some models is wrong and there have been quite a few people that have stripped one or two bolts until they realize there is a problem. I believe the factory service manual is what I went by. After taking all that caution with torque specs on the caps, I used torque values from my Haynes when installing the cam chain tensioner back on. The value was wrong and I stripped one of the bolts (actually the value was wrong in the body of the chapter, but correct in the table at the end of the chapter).
Also, there are ways that you can use wood clamps to overcome the tension of the valve springs pressing against the cams. Which also avoids cam cap stripping. I didn't use that method, but made sure I pulled the cam down evenly and slowly, little by little. Good luck.

I would also drop the pan while you are at it. Of course you will need a new gasket. It's a pain taking it off ( I had to use a heat gun along with whacking it with a piece of wood) and of course cleaning the old gasket is never fun. But it is worth the trouble. You find lots of debris and will be able to clean it from the pump screen and bottom of the pan. Here is some pictures of what I found.

www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/477917...road?start=80#543965

If the guide is broken, chances are the rollers are shot too. This is what I replaced mine with. I've been in there twice since 13. All I had to replace is the center rubber roller and front guide due to the aftermarket adjuster. It went into the crap bin.
Steve

Luckily I have some spare idlers from another 1000 that are in good shape, I did order some new rollers and all of the rubber bits, along with rings and gaskets from Z1E this morning. Thanks for the help so far. I'm definitely going to see of I can scrape together a functional stock tensioner. Not about to risk having this happen again.

swest wrote: If the guide is broken, chances are the rollers are shot too. This is what I replaced mine with. I've been in there twice since 13. All I had to replace is the center rubber roller and front guide due to the aftermarket adjuster. It went into the crap bin.
Steve

Excellent. You are doing this the right way!!
Replace all the rubber bits, especially the damper rubbers.
You'll be good for many many thousands of miles.

What is your compression like?
With 65,000 on her fresh rings would be nice.