Z1 vs Z900 vs Z1000 Alternator rotor

  • SWest
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08 Apr 2016 20:19 #719980 by SWest

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09 Apr 2016 00:53 #720012 by zed1015
Replied by zed1015 on topic Z1 vs Z900 vs Z1000 Alternator rotor
You must fit the woodruff key, especially with the decreased contact area of the scored taper.
The 8mm bolt on its own isn't enough to stop the rotor spinning loose and increasing the torque will cause the bolt to shear.
This is why they increased the bolt size to 10mm and increased the torque when they stopped using a key.

AIR CORRECTOR JETS FOR VM CARBS AND ETHANOL RESISTANT VITON CHOKE PLUNGER SEAL REPLACMENT FOR ALL CLASSIC AND MODERN MOTORCYCLE CARBURETTORS
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09 Apr 2016 03:19 - 09 Apr 2016 07:49 #720017 by Bozo
Replied by Bozo on topic Z1 vs Z900 vs Z1000 Alternator rotor
Ok. I'll fit the key before riding

Would you use more than the 18Ft/lb torque on the rotor bolt?? . Keep in mind my bike does easily rev to the rev limiting of 10K rpm

First Permanent ride the Z1R since Dec1977 (220,000km) as of June 2015
Second permanent bike 1989 FJ1200 dyno'd 140RWH, great bike.
Third ride is now the Frankenstein 1981 GPZ1100B1, 1983 fully recon motor fitted LOVE THIS BIKE
Forth my work bike FJ1200 1989 (same type as FJ above)
Last edit: 09 Apr 2016 07:49 by Bozo.

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09 Apr 2016 15:50 #720087 by Bozo
Replied by Bozo on topic Z1 vs Z900 vs Z1000 Alternator rotor

Bozo wrote: Ok. I'll fit the key before riding

Would you use more than the 18Ft/lb torque on the rotor bolt?? . Keep in mind my bike does easily rev to the rev limiting of 10K rpm


Bump, Zed/Steve, see question above

First Permanent ride the Z1R since Dec1977 (220,000km) as of June 2015
Second permanent bike 1989 FJ1200 dyno'd 140RWH, great bike.
Third ride is now the Frankenstein 1981 GPZ1100B1, 1983 fully recon motor fitted LOVE THIS BIKE
Forth my work bike FJ1200 1989 (same type as FJ above)

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09 Apr 2016 16:17 #720088 by SWest
Replied by SWest on topic Z1 vs Z900 vs Z1000 Alternator rotor
That's what the book says. I just do it by hand. I had a problem with the rotor coming loose so I used blue lock tight on the taper. The rotor was coming apart later and I had to heat it up with a torch to get it off. If yours is in good shape and fits the taper well, it should stay on. Just use lock tight on the bolt.
Steve

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10 Apr 2016 01:36 #720145 by zed1015
Replied by zed1015 on topic Z1 vs Z900 vs Z1000 Alternator rotor

Bozo wrote:

Bozo wrote: Ok. I'll fit the key before riding

Would you use more than the 18Ft/lb torque on the rotor bolt?? . Keep in mind my bike does easily rev to the rev limiting of 10K rpm

Bump, Zed/Steve, see question above


Just go with the std torque setting and Loctite on the bolt threads only.
Any more torque is just risking stretching the bolt and having it fail.
The rpm's aren't really the issue, it's the force on rapid acceleration that shears the fit between the rotor and crank.
My Supercharged Z1000A revs like a 2 stroke and will hit 12k if I let it, It too has a 900 crank and has done 1000's of miles with no problem.

AIR CORRECTOR JETS FOR VM CARBS AND ETHANOL RESISTANT VITON CHOKE PLUNGER SEAL REPLACMENT FOR ALL CLASSIC AND MODERN MOTORCYCLE CARBURETTORS
kzrider.com/forum/23-for-sale/611992-air-corrector-jets-





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10 Apr 2016 01:46 #720146 by Bozo
Replied by Bozo on topic Z1 vs Z900 vs Z1000 Alternator rotor
I did as suggested, I also checked the fitting with the wider rubber washer, it is 0.7mm thicker which is a fair bit, and it did push against the rotor hard, so that might've caused the rotor not to tighten on the taper properly. Anyway I'll rechecked this unit (assuming it doesn't rattle beforehand) in a month just to be safe.

First Permanent ride the Z1R since Dec1977 (220,000km) as of June 2015
Second permanent bike 1989 FJ1200 dyno'd 140RWH, great bike.
Third ride is now the Frankenstein 1981 GPZ1100B1, 1983 fully recon motor fitted LOVE THIS BIKE
Forth my work bike FJ1200 1989 (same type as FJ above)

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