Clutch Screw Won't adjust/no clutch return

Ed is right. Even with the ball under extreme use it can weld itself to the rod and push plate. That's why they sell roller bearing ones. Someone put it in the wrong side because he was too lazy to do it right. PO's suck.
I've had one do it then grab the screw finally splitting the cover.
Steve

Does anyone have a comparable image like this for a 750? This is from a 550 factory manual.


Notice the opening for the rod is too small for the ball bearing to fall out on the sprocket side.
Obviously, it's also too small to push one in from the sprocket side, unless they use a much smaller ball bearing.

Part 14 is part 11 on Ed's diagram.

Does anyone have a comparable image like this for a 750? This is from a 550 factory manual.

Here ya go. From the 750-4 manual on the mbsween site.

I have never had to open my clutch but I did remove the push rod for some reason many years ago and did not have the ball bearing fall out.

Take off the clutch cover, put the bearing in and be done with it.
Steve

swest wrote: Ed is right. Even with the ball under extreme use it can weld itself to the rod and push plate.

That's why they have the roller bearing setup and ceramic ball, that's the setup on my 1200cc motor

I was just working on my 1982 kz750 and the clutch release and cable were loose after I put the sprocket cover back on. I had to remove the cover, make sure the bearings were seated correctly in the lever, then make sure the lever moved up and down when the clutch was pulled. After I got it back the sprocket cover back on, I adjusted the clutch adjuster screw by turning counter-clockwise out till it met the clutch plates, turned it half turn back clockwise and locked down the lock nut.

Adjusted my cable to 2-5mm play and things seem good now.

The manual had me adjusting the clutch adjuster the wrong way.

Clymer?
Steve

The 550 Kaw FSM also has it backward for the 81 supplement which is a ball and ramp actuator. R

There was confusion when Kawasaki went from the big-screw to the ball-pocket type actuators.
This image is for the 550, but is likely the same for 750's.
gpzweb.s3-website-us-east-1.amazonaws.com/ClutchReleaseMech.GIF

Yeah, they're called the EZ pull. Can get them for other bikes too. My 350 Honda had it and it would go POP, no clutch. Had to pull the cover to reset it. I like my old worm drive. No problems and zukedave may have come up with the answer to the hard lever issue.
Steve

floivanus wrote:

swest wrote: Ed is right. Even with the ball under extreme use it can weld itself to the rod and push plate.

That's why they have the roller bearing setup and ceramic ball, that's the setup on my 1200cc motor

Denco said the Torrington roller bearing set up was a "must" on their high performance bikes. Few other big names have stated it too over the years.

The 1980 750/4 bikes used a helix type clutch actuation device like the earlier 650's. Sometime in the '81 model build they switched over to the ramp actuation mechanism. The ramp type device tends to fall out of the cover when you disconnect the clutch cable (the early type may as well, not sure). At any rate, you need to get the device indexed correctly or it won't work. It's real easy to get it indexed incorrectly. First time I installed the cover on my 750 there was no resistance in the cable, so I pulled the cover and repositioned the actuation arm by rotating the device one notch so to speak clockwise, and reinstalled the cover. This fixed it up.

Regarding the ball everyone keeps talking about, I'm pretty sure you can not remove the ball from the clutch cover side of the bike. It needs to come out from the clutch side.